MURDOCH. ] WOMEN’S PANTALOONS. UT 
joining the edges d dd of the opposite legs and sewing the gusset (8) 
into the space in front with its base joined to the edges e e of the two 
legs. The sole of each shoe is a single piece of white tanned sealskin 
with the grain side out, bent up about 
14 inches all round the foot, rounded 
at the toe and heel and broadest across 
the ball of the foot. The toe and heel 
are “gathered” into shape by crimping 
the edge vertically. A space of about 
34 inches is left uncrimped on each 
side of the foot. (The process of crimp- 
ing these soles will be described under 
the head of boots and shoes, where it 
properly belongs). Around the top of 
this sole is sewed a narrow band of 
white sealskin, sewed ‘over and over” 
on the edge of the uncrimped space, 
but “run” through the gathers at the 
ends, so as to draw them up. The 
upper is in two pieces (heel, 9, and 
toe, 10). The heel piece is folded round 
the heel, and the toe piece doubled 
along the line /, and the curved edges 
gg jomed to the straight edges h h, 
which makes the folded edge f, fit the 
outline of the instep. The bottom is 
then cut off accurately to fit the sole 4 
and sewed tothe edge of the band. The ma 
trousers and shoes are sewed together ae 
attheankles. The whole ismadeof the 
short-haired skin from the deer’s legs. Pieces 2, 4, 7, 8,9, and 10 are of 
dark brown skin (10 put on so that the tuft of coarse hair on the deer’s 
ankle comes on the outside of the wearer’s ankle), while the remain- 
ing pieces are white, making a pleasing pattern of broad stripes. The 
inner edge of 5 is piped with dark brown fawnskin, and a round piece 
of white skin is inserted at the bottom of 2. No. 56748 [136] is a 
pair of pantaloons of nearly the same pattern (see diagram, Fig. 73)) 
and put together in a similar way. These pantaloons have soles of 
sealskin with the hair left on and worn inside, and are made of deer 
leg skin, wholly dark brown, except the gussets on the calf, which are 
white. There is a piece of white skin let out, 2, as before, and the 
ankle tuft is in the same position. 
From the general fit of these garments they appear to be all made on 
essentially the same pattern, probably without greater variations than 
those already described. When worn by the women the material is 
usually, if not always, the skin of reindeer legs, and most commonly of 
ee creas ere 
= 
Fig. 72.—Woman’s pantaloons. 
