130 THE POINT BARROW ESKIMO. 
the teeth along a line parallel to the folded edge and at a distance 
from it equal to the depth of the intended fold. This bitten line runs 
from the edge of the leather as far as it is intended to turn up the side 
of the sole. A series of similar folds is carried round the toe to a point 
on the other side of the sole opposite the starting point. In the same 
way a series of crimps is carried round the heel, leaving an uncrimped 
space of 2 or 3 inches on each side of the foot. The sole is then sewed 
to a band or to the edge of the upper, with the thread run through each 
fold of the crimps. This gathers the sole in at the heel and toe and 
brings the uncrimped part straight up on each side of the shank. When 
the folds are all of the same length and but slightly gathered the sole is 
turned up nearly straight, as at the heel usually, and at the toe also of 
waterproof boots. When the folds are long and much gathered the sole 
slopes well in over the foot. Some boots, especially those intended for full 
dress, have the sole deeper on the sides than at the toe, so that the top of 
the sole comes to a point at the toe. The ordinary pattern is about the 
same height all round and follows the shape of the foot, being rather more 
gathered in over the toe than at the heel. The “blank” for the sole is cut 
out by measuring the size of the foot on the leather and allowing by eye 
the margin which is to be turned up. The crimping is also done by 
eye. Any irregularity in the length of the crimps can be remedied by 
pressing out the crease. I have never seen at Point Barrow the ivory 
knives, such as are used at Norton Sound for arranging the crimps. 
Different kinds of leather are used for the soles, and each kind is 
supposed to be best suited for a particular purpose. The beautiful 
white urine-tanned sealskin is used for winter wear when the snow is 
dry, but is not suited for standing the roughness and dampness of the 
salt-water ice. For this purpose sealskin dressed with the hair on and 
worn flesh side out is said to be the very best, preferable even to the 
various waterproof skins used for summer boot soles. For waterproof 
soles are used oil-dressed skins! of the walrus, bearded seal, polar bear, 
or, best of all, the white whale. This last makes a beautiful light yellow 
translucent leather about 0-1 inch thick, which is quite durable and 
keeps out water for a long time. It is highly prized and quite an article 
of trade among the natives, a pair of soles usually commanding a good 
price. These Eskimo appear to be the only ones who have discovered 
the excellence of this material for waterproof soles, as there is no men- 
tion to be found of its use elsewhere. The ‘‘narwhal skin” spoken of 
by Dr. Simpson? is probably this material, as he calls it ‘‘ Kel-lel’-lu-a,” 
which is the ordinary word for white whale at Point Barrow. The nar- 
whal is very rare in these waters, while the white whale is comparatively 
abundant. Dr. Simpson appears not to have seen the animal from which 
the skin was obtained. Itis, however, by no means impossible that some 
skins of the narwhal, which when dressed would be indistinguishable 
'Probably prepared like the boat covers described by Crantz, vol.1, p. 167, by drying them without 
removing all of their own blubber. ‘ 
2Op. cit., pp. 242-266. 
