FISHES. 371 



Fish, considered as an article of food, is regardetl as 

 light, and easily digested, and, therefore, well suited for the 

 young, the weak, and the sedentary. But for the same 

 reason, it is unsuitable food for those engaged in laborious 

 occupations. Among the Romans, he who fed on fish was 

 regarded as effeminate. It has often been considered, 

 though, perhaps, without cause, as tending to promote the 

 fertility of the human species ; and the immense population 

 of China has been ascribed to the abundant use of this kind 

 of nourishment. Its tendency, however,to encourage diseases 

 of the skin appears to be universally acknowledged, and is, 

 indeed, very evident in the remote islands of this country, 

 as also of Faroe, of Iceland, and of Norway, where fish 

 forms so great a proportion of the food of the inhabitants. 

 For dietetical uses, fishes have frequently to under- 

 go some sort of preparation, varying according to the 

 situation, the necessities, or the taste of the consumers. 

 Where circumstances permit, they are in general used in a 

 fresh state ; and even in large cities, where the supply must 

 be brought from a distance, various expedients are resorted 

 to, to prevent the progress of putrefaction. By far the 

 best contrivance for this purpose is the well-boat, in 

 which fish may be brought to the place of sale even in 

 a living state. Placing the fish in boxes, and packing 

 with ice, is another method, and has been extensively 

 employed, particularly in the supply of the capital with 

 salmon. 



In many maritime districts, where fish can be got . in 

 abundance, a species of refinement in taste, or at least a de- 

 parture from the simplicity of nature, prevails, to gratify 

 which, the fish are kept for some days, imtil they begin 

 to putrefy. When used in this state, they are far from 



