172 
THE GARDENERS’ CHRONICLE. 
[Mar. 18, 
“of the last to be insensible to such a gratification ; 
“but Lhope the President of the Microscopical 
“ Society will agree with me in thinking it would be 
« no waste of time for himself and a few other zealous 
‘« Botanists, Chemists, and Geologists in London to 
“hold monthly meetings for the express purpose of 
“ devising experiments to be conducted on some such 
plan as the one I have suggested to the farmers of 
“Suffolk, There must be some sort of organisation 
“ for furnishing mere practical men with the proposed 
“ Schedules, and with precise instructions for filling 
“them up. Possibly a joint association of co-opera- 
“ting experimenters among farmers and gardeners 
“would be a preferable scheme to calling upon the 
“ present Agricultural Societies. Might not a sma 
* sum be levied annually from the various Horticul- 
“tural and Agricultural societies for carrying out a 
“ plan which ought not to involve the class of experi- 
“ menters to whom we should apply in any personal 
“expense beyond mere postage? Might not a page 
‘* or two be added to the Gardeners’ Chronicle, to be 
expressly devoted to the discussion of the experi- 
“* ments proposed 2” re 
In the latter part of the proposition we at once 
express our concurrence, if such a Society should 
become desirable; but we trust, as we have already 
stated, that the existing Societies will render a new 
Association unnecessary ; and that the intention ex- 
pressed by Mr. Pusey of moving for the appointment 
of a consulting chemist by the Royal Agricultural 
Society is an indication that some such step is about 
to be taken by that great body. 
= 
Many have been the attempts to increase the quan- 
tity and effect of common stable and farm-yard ma- 
nure by mixing it with other substances, which alone 
would not have had any fertilising effect, or which 
are supposed to increase its activity. It may not be 
uninteresting, both to gardeners and farmers, to con- 
sider the principles on which these composts or 
mixens, as they are sometimes called, are made ; using 
only experience and common sense, and such chemical 
facts as are universally admitted, even by those whohave 
no pretence to science. 
It is well known that fermenting dung has the 
property of dissolving vegetable and animal fibre, 
dispersing its volatile elements, and only leaving 
those which are more fixed. Thus, a mixture of 
dung and straw, especially when moistened with 
urine, produces a considerable heat, which is taken 
advantage of by gardeners to make hotbeds for forcing 
vegetation. But when the object is to obtain the 
most effective manure with the least loss, it is evident 
that the heat should not be permitted to rise to such 
a degree as will disperse the volatile elements which 
arise from the decomposition of the substances heaped 
together. ‘Ihe process should be so gradual, that 
the gases evolved may be absorbed aud condensed by 
some substances added for this especial purpose. The 
dung of animals, especially that of horses fed on 
Corn, very soon enters into putrefaction, and serves 
as a ferment to induce putrefaction in those sub- 
stances, such as straw and woody fibre, which other- 
wise would scarcely heat, and would only moulder 
away very slowly by exposure to air and moisture, 
Vegetable fibre may thus be readily decomposed, 
even when united with an astringent principle, which 
resists putrefaction, asin Peat. A mixture of dung, 
straw, Peat, and any kind of vegetable fibre moist- 
ened with water or with urine, will soon heat, and de- 
compose; andif a portion of earth be mixed with 
this in layers and form a covering to the heap, it will 
absorb the volatile gases as they slowly arise, espe- 
cially if thee be vegetable mould in it. Thus, stb- 
stances which in themselves would be inert become 
highly fertilising, and the actual manure is increased, 
The mixing of lime, chalk, or marl with dung, and 
turning this over frequently, does not seem to addany 
fertilising matter to the heap which it had not before ; 
and, unless we could show a beneficial action of these 
substances on the animal and vegetable fibre, it ad- 
mits of a doubt, whether this mixing and turning of 
a large heap of manure may not be labour thrown 
away. Lime is excellent in heavy soils, which are 
not exhausted; it makes the humic acid soluble, 
according to some: at all events, its good effect is 
matter of experience. Chalk and marl improve the 
texture of the soiJ, and likewise afford calcareous mat- 
ter to act on the humic acid; but these substances 
add nothing to the strength of the manure in the 
compost, more than when they are spread over the 
surface and ploughed in with the dung. What, then, 
have given rise to this practice of making such 
pes A prdpadly the idea that, as lime, chalk, and 
corn s called manures, and land which 
added to it produces better crops, 
ity of dung, than the lands where 
fpeen added, they have been 
es J 6 cbiifain a fertilising power in them- 
<tely laxc¥ovAhat of dung. ence the mis- 
Ay idea liming is a substitute for a 
2 LOINONA 
SMANGUYS 
dressing with dung, and consequently, that it must 
improve the compost. 
We are aware that we are opening a door to 
controversy on this point, on which practical farmers 
differ widely—so much the better, if it excites them 
to make comparative experiments. We desire not 
to lay down the law: we only express doubts, which 
may be confirmed or removed, when well-authenti- 
cated facts shall be brought forward for or against 
our position. In the mean time we will explain 
our practice. As the time when the greatest part of 
farm-yard manure is put on the land is in the spring 
on young Clover, and in summer on root crops, 
it is carried out of the yard into the field at such a 
time, that, when it is wanted for the land, the straw 
shall be partially decomposed, the fibres readily sepa- 
rating and breaking off short. ‘The practical farmer 
knows well how to manage the dunghill, so as not to 
heat too rapidly, At one time he may throw earth 
over it, at another he may water it; according to the 
state in which it comes out of the yard, he throws it 
out lightly with the fork, or he drives the horses and 
carts over it to check the putrefactive process, by ex- 
cluding atmospheric air. No specific directions can 
be given on this point. If he thinks chalk or marl 
useful, and can readily obtain them, he carries 
them on the land after harvest, when it has had its 
last ploughing before winter, spreads it, and lets the 
winter's frost divide and pulverise it. If he uses 
lime, he puts it on after the dung is incorporated, or 
at the same time with it, ploughing both in together, 
or on his Clovers about to be ploughed up for Wheat ; 
in short, when he thinks it will have the best effect. 
The farm-yard dung needs no other turning than what 
it had when carted to the field, and when it is spread 
over it. If there is room in the yard for throwing it 
together and inducing the proper fermentation, it will 
save much labour at a busy time of the year. In that 
case, the farmer will calculate how long it should be 
heaped up before it is carried. The more animal 
matter it contains, the sooner it will be ripe. It should 
never be in very high heaps, so as to heat unequally ; 
and the process should be watched carefully. A little 
attention may save great loss. 
Sir Humphrey Davy maintained that the farm- 
yard dung could not be used too fresh; as in this 
case nothing would be lost, and the straw would 
slowly decompose in the earth. Theoretically, this is 
correct; but we find, in practice, that long, undecom- 
posed straw ploughed into the Jand, in dry weather 
especially, allows the moisture to evaporate too rapidly ; 
whereas short dung absorbs it, or even produces it. 
The seeds of many weeds, which a gentle heat would 
have caused to germinate in the heap and have de- 
composed, are thus sown in the land and interfere 
with the crop. ‘Thus experience modifies theory, 
while theory directs useful experiments.—M. 
THE CORAL-TREE AS AN OPEN-AIR PLANT. 
In confirmation of your Limerick correspondent’s state- 
ment, at p. 742 of last year’s Chronicle, relative to the 
blooming of Erythrina laurifdlia in the open air, I may state 
that in 1832 there was a plant of E. Crista-galli in the gar- 
den at Welbeck, which had then stood out a number 
of years, and which annually produced thousands of 
flowers. This plant was growing ina border, 6 feet square, 
at the east end of a fruiting Pine-house. The treatment it 
received was as follows : 
In autumn, after the frost had destroyed its beauty, it 
was cut down, and the bed, which also contained some 
Faichsias, was covered about a foot thick with old dry tan ; 
to make a neat finish, the mound was afterwards turfed 
over. ~The tan was carefully removed about the middle of 
April, by which time the young shoots, as thick as strong 
Asparagus, had generally protruded several inches. These 
were thinned out, about a dozen of the strongest being 
retained, which in the course of the season formed a bush 
from 4 to 5 feet in diameter, being in autumn one mass of 
bloom. The bed was annually mulched with rich compost, 
and the plant was occasionally watered with liquid manure. 
As this plant enjoyed peculiar advantages, inasmuch as 
the ground was high and dry, and the situation sheltered ; 
the heat being also reflected during the day, and slowly 
radiated by night, both by the end of the house and the 
stone pavement with which the bed was surrounded, I think 
a somewhat different treatment will be necessary to ensure 
its flowering in a more exposed locality. From what I 
have observed, I doubt not but the following mode of treat- 
ment will ensure its blooming in a moderately sheltered 
situation, 
Cuttings of the young wood taken off with a heel when 
about 3 inches long, and planted round the edge of a large 
pot, or singly in small ones, in sandy peat, and plunged in 
a brisk bottom-heat, will root in the course of a few weeks. 
This is suitable for those cuttings which are taken from 
plants in heat; but cuttings from the open air will not bear 
such treatment. The transition to a close warm frame ap- 
pears too much for them, and they become paralysed ; but 
if, after being planted, they are placed in a moderately warm 
frame until the cuttings are cicatrised, and then removed 
to a brisk bottom-heat, they will root with great freedom. 
Propagation may also be effected by division of the roots ; 
but this is nota good practice. After the cuttings are rooted, 
they must be repotted into rich light compost, and en- 
couraged to make robust growth. As it is indispensable 
that the plants should become strong before they are 
planted out, they must have at least one season’s cultiva- 
tion in pots ; the flower-buds must also be removed as soon 
as they are perceptible, so that the whole organizable mat- 
ter may be concentrated in the young plant. 
In the spring of the second season, therefore, the 
ground may be prepared for the reception of the plants, 
and as the preservation in winter of the roots of all tender 
plants depends as much upon the dryness as upon the 
warmth of the soil, it will be advisable to give them an 
elevated but not an exposed situation; and where the 
subsoil is not porous, make it so artificially. Therefore, 
where it is necessary, excavate the natnral soil to the 
depth of two feet, and in the bottom place a layer of brick 
rubbish, at least six inches thick ; over that lay some small 
sticks, leaves, or moss, to prevent the soil from getting 
into the drainage; and in filling up, raise the bed six 
inches above the level of the surrounding soil, with a com- 
post consisting of rich turfy loam, leaf-mould, and turfy 
peat, in the proportions of two parts of the former to one 
of each of the latter; to which sandstone or porous 
bricks, broken to the large size of large eggs may be 
added, to the extent of one-eighth of the whole mass, 
This mixture will never become solid; on the contrary, it 
will always be permeable to both air and moisture, without 
any risk of oming saturated with the latter. The 
plants in the first season may be planted 18 inches apart ; 
but, in the third year, half of them may be taken out to 
form anew plantation; and in the fifth or sixth year, 
each plant when in flower will acquire an area of 16 or 20 
square feet. When large specimens for immediate effect 
are desired, four or five may be placed in juxta-position. 
The best time to plant them ont will be from the last week 
in May to the middle of June, as the ground will then be 
a little warm, and the plants will sustain no check, 
Towards the end of October the plants should be cut 
down, and the crown of each covered with a box or 
flower-pot filled with dry leaves ; the whole being’ spread 
over with dry peat, leaf-mould, or sawdust, to the depth 
of a foot, and then turfed over neatly. The latter will be 
found advantageous, especially if the sides of the bed have 
a sharpish inclination, as it will throw off much of the 
rain that would otherwise soak into the mould, and impair 
its protecting properties. 
in spring, when the covering is removed, and the plants 
are established, the surface of the beds should be renewed 
to the depth of the roots with the above compost ; the 
whole being afterwards covered two inches thick with 
sandy-peat or leaf-mould. This, from its colour and good 
conducting properties, will absorb considerable heat 
during the day ; but as it will part with it quite as frecly 
when the sun does not shine, it will be necessary to pro~ 
tect each plant with a handglass after the sun is down, 
and to cover the whole bed with mats during the night. 
This covering should be continued until the middle of 
June, or later, if the weather requires it. Water during 
the growing season may be freely administered in dry 
weather ; and if liquid manure is occas 
will add to the strength of the plants 
in bloom the less water that falls on th the better it 
will be for the preservation of the roots through the 
winter, 
The situation in which the plant was placed at Wel- 
beck did not show it off to advantage; but planted ona 
lawn, either as a single specimen or in a group, the Coral- 
tree would be one of the finest things imaginable; cer- 
tainly nothing inferior to Clianthus puniceus.—W. P. 
ures, 
ON THE TREATMENT OF SEEDS HAVING 
LARGE FLESHY COTYLEDONS. 
Ture are many operations connected with gardening, 
which, although apparently trifling ond unimportant in 
the performance, are nevertheless far otherwise in their 
results, One of these is the sowing of a seed ; and as an 
Acorn will be a fair type of the class of which I speak, I 
shall select it as an example. 
It is ageneral rule, I believe, to place the seed ata 
considerable depth below the surface of the soil, this depth 
eing regulated by the magnitude of the seed. Nothing 
can be more injurious to the future progress of the tree in 
every stage of growth than this treatment, the reasons for 
which I shall endeavour to explain. 
Every one is aware that seeds, such as Acorns, Beans, 
Chesnuts, &c., are composed of two fleshy lobes or coty- 
ledons, connected on one side by the embryo or future 
plant, the whole being inclosed by a thick outer covering. 
The seed being placed in a situation favourable to vegeta- 
tion, the cotyledons imbibing moisture, and consequently 
ecoming much swollen, the shell or covering not being 
of a nature to accommodate itself to the increased size of 
the cotyledons, bursts, and a ‘small radicle or root pene- 
trates the earth for a double purpose ; first, in search of 
nourishment for theinfant plant ; and secondly, to secure 
it firmly in its place. But the nourishment furnished by 
the root is but a secondary source to the embryo 3 for we 
find that nature has furnished other means of support to 
the delicate and as yet minute plant. The cotyledons are 
the organs by which the elements suitable for its food an 
nourishment are extracted from the atmosphere, digested, 
and prepared for the delicate infant tree; in short, 
the cotyledons are to a seedling plant what leaves are to 
one of larger growth. 
To place a seed, then, below the surface of the soil, where 
it would be hidden from the full actions of the atmosphere, 
is a gross mistake, and a wide deviation from the rules of 
nature ; for when do we find a seed, sown by nature’s own, 
hand, hidden several inches below the soil ?—-and nature’s 
