1843.] 
THE GARDENERS’ 
CHRONICLE. 
229 
it is sometimes necessary; yet, during the day, the 
sun will run up the thermometer, without any fire-heat, 
to 50 or 55 deg. In very damp weather, I heat the flue, 
and open all the sashes, for the purpose of admitting a 
larger volume of air; the lower sashes on the roof also 
slide up. 
The benches in front on which the specimens stand, I 
recommend, during the summer, to be filled up on either 
side with planks, so as to form a trough, which for 8s or 
larger pots should be one foot in depth. This may be 
filled with cinders, and gently sprinkled in very hot days 
with water. It has the effect of preserving the pots cool, 
yet not damp, for any length of time; and constant 
drenching is thereby avoided. On hot sunny days I shade 
and open every sash and door. It frequently happens, 
however, that in June, and even July, we havea bright 
sun, yet not accompanied with intense heat; in which 
case I give the Heaths the full benefit of it, and a slight 
syringing early in the morning; but this must be done with 
judgment. About the first week in August the house 
should be cleaned ; putting the plants, arranged in the 
same manner as in the house, on a bench and stage of a 
similar construction to the one in-doors, but against a 
north wall, and in an airy situation, From the sides of the 
stage raise two or more upright supporters, upon which 
fit on some canvas blinds, not only to protect the top, but 
the sides, when high wind or heavy rains are likely to 
prevail. I recommend the top to be waterproof. In the 
third week in September, house the plants, but give night 
and day all the air possible. By degrees the wood will be- 
come ripened, and there will then be no fear of mildew. 
This plan I have partly pursued, and would carry out en- 
tirely, but for the expense.—Zrica. 
Ss 
By Prorrssor Cuarius Sprencer, (Translated from 
the German 
(Continued from page 208.) 
d. Oat Straw.—100,000 parts of ripe air-dried Oat 
straw consist of 47,000 parts of woody fibre, 0.800 of 
resin and wax, 52,000 parts of substances soluble in water 
and potash ; which latter substances contain (according to 
Boussingault) 360 parts of nitrogen. 100,000 parts of the 
straw contain of mineral substances :— 
4.584 parts of silica 
0.1 fime 
52 oy 
0.022 ,, magnesia 
0.870 4, potash 
0.002 4, soda 
0.006 ,, alumina 
0.002 ,, oxide of iron 
0.006 ,, oxide of manganese 
0.012 ,, phosphoric acid 
0.079 ‘5 sulphuric acid 
0.005 ,, chlorine 
5.740 parts of mineral substances. 
100 parts of Oat-straw contain, therefore, 5.7 lbs. mineral 
substances, amongst which are nearly 3%; 1b. of potash. 
Tf, therefore, amongst the dung carried on a Magdeburg 
acre of land, there are 3,000 lbs. of stable-straw, this acre 
will so obtain 27 lbs. of potash, which must have a great 
influence on the crops. The nitrogen of the straw is of 
less importance, as 2,000 lbs. do not contain more than 
10 or lllbs. As the straw of Oats also contains little 
lime, magnesia, soda, sulphuric and phosphoric acid or 
chlorine, so far as these mineral substances are concerned, 
itis incapable of yielding such good manure as Rye-straw, 
Wheat, or Barley ; and this is consistent with the expe- 
tence of large farms. 
e. Buck- Wheat Straw.—100,000 parts of ripe air-dried 
Buck-Wheat-straw contain 54,000 parts of woody fibre, 
1,000 parts of resin and wax, and 45,000 parts of sub- 
Stances soluble in water and potash; according to Bous- 
Singault, the latter contain 480 parts of nitrogen. 
00,000 parts of the straw contain of mineral sub- 
Stances :— 
0.140 parts of silica 
0.704 lime 
04 : 
1.292 ,, magnesia 
0P832% +, potash 
0.062 4, soda 
0.026 ,,° alumina 
0.015  ,, oxide of iron 
0.032  ,, manganese 
0.217. ,, sulphuric acid 
0.288 ,, phosphoric acid 
0.095 °,, chlorine 
3.203 parts of mineral substances. 
100 lbs. of Buck-Wheat straw consequently contain 
3.21bs. mineral substances. As these are principally 
Such as are most nutritious to plants, and as the quantity 
of nitrogen is also considerable, it is evident that Buck- 
Wheat litter will yield better manure than that of Barley, 
ats, or Rye. The straw of Buck-Wheat forms an ex- 
ception to the general rule, that the manuring qualities of 
plants are in the same ratio as their nutritive qualities, it 
being a bad fodder; this, however, is caused by the pres- 
ie of a peculiar substance, which is apt to injure cattle. 
deed, some other species of Buck-Wheat, such as Poly- 
80num Hydropiper, Persicaria, amphibium, lapathifolium, 
and minus, are also noxious to cattle. 
Buck-Wheat straw, under favourable circumstances, 
neetsoes speedy decomposition, for which reason manure 
htained from its litter will only act for a short time. 
ae the straw of Oats and Barley it shrinks much when 
Sed as litter, so that more of it is required than of either 
ye or Wheat. straw, for keeping the beds of cattle dry, 
(To be continued.) 
ON THE CULTIVATION OF CHRY- 
SANTHEMU 
Ss. 
A corrEsPonpENT, signing himself‘ Amateur,’’ writes 
as follows: “I hada pretty good show of Chrysanthe- 
mums last season, but yet not to my mind, and therefore 
I should like to know the best way of beginning with 
them, so as to produce the finest flowers—the shape and 
bushiness of the plants being no object, as they are placed 
close together on a stand when in flower. Should the 
shoots which are growing thickly on the old stools in the 
greenhouse be taken up with rcots now, or allowed to grow 
on, and the stems made into cuttings afterwards? If taken 
off now, should they be ‘ stopped’—if so, when should 
this be done? I grew a flower of Magnet to 5} inches 
in diameter, but there was only one upon the plant.” 
There is one error in the cultivation of Chrysanthemums 
into which the inexperienced Amateur is apt to be led, 
and that is—neglecting or paying but little attention to 
his plants after the flowering season is past. They are 
either allowed to remain in a warm greenhouse, and forced 
into growth, or they are thrown aside and neglected until 
late in the summer, when he recoliects that they are 
wanted for winter flowering. Like the greater part of 
herbaceous things of this description they are tenacious of 
life, and easily grown; but if they are to be cultivated 
well, aregular system of management is necessary. After 
the flowering season is past, and the old stems cut down, 
the plants should be removed from the greenhouse or con- 
servatory, and placed in a cold frame, where they are 
merely protected from severe frost. Here they should 
have plenty of air, and on fine days the lights should be 
drawn quite off, and the plants fully exposed. When the 
winter is mild, they will stand very well unprotected; but 
owing to their having been grown and excited in the 
greenhouse, they are more apt to suffer from severe weather 
than if they had been planted out in the open air ; for this 
reason it is always better to have the means of giving 
them some slight protection. If they are kept too close 
and warm in winter, they begin to grow fast, the leaves 
are yellow, and the stems weak, and consequently they 
form bad cuttings when the season of propagation comes 
round. But if they are merely protected and attended to as 
has been already described, they grow slowly and make 
excellent cuttings. 
The proper time for striking cuttings depends upon the 
objects which the propagator has in view. Nurserymen 
who want a good stock of a particular kind may propagate 
it at almost any season, and generally begin very early in 
spring. But for ordinary purposes, from the middle of 
March to the middle of April, is quite soon enough, and 
the Amateur can then do so without any artificial heat, 
which is of great consequence to those who have very 
limited gardens. It matters very little whether the cut- 
tings are taken off with roots or without them, as in the 
latter case they will form thém in a few days, and soon 
begin to grow rapidly. The frame should be kept very 
close, moist, and shaded, until the cuttings have formed 
roots for their support ; when this takes place a little air 
may be admitted gradually as the plants will bear it, and 
then afterwards they must be fully exposed. 
The shifting of the plants in the earlier part of the sum- 
mer should be particularly attended to. If this is neglected, 
no good after-management will save them from losing 
their leaves and looking badly in autumn and winter. As 
soon as they are fairly starting into growth, the top 
of each should be nipped out with the finger and thumb, 
which will cause several young shoots to spring from the 
under part of the plant, and thus form it into a compact 
bush. This may be repeated two or three times with 
advantage in the earlier part of the season with the free- 
flowering kinds; but after the plant is fairly formed it 
should be discontinued, otherwise the flowering will be 
injured. The cultivator must exercise his own judgment 
in this respect, as it may suit the purpose in some parts of 
the country and not in others, as well as with some of the 
varieties only, For example, about London the system 
answers admirably ; but itis very doubtful whether it would 
do about Edinburgh, or further north, particularly in 
cold, wet summers. ‘ Amateur,’’ whose letter was quoted 
at the commencement, should attend particularly to this 
art of the treatment, as his plants would probably flower 
better if not ‘‘ stopped,” or, at most, only once, as he does 
not care about handsome specimens. The size of the pots 
into which the plants are shifted will depend entirely upon 
the views of the cultivator. Large pots, such as 16s, 12s, 
and 8s, for the last shifting, answer well for those who 
wish to see fine leafy plants, in preference to others with 
naked stems ; but where this size is inconvenient, of course 
they must be grown in smaller pots—they may be flowered 
well in 32s and 24s. 
The soil for their growth can scarcely be too rich; 
about equal parts of loam, dung, leaf-mould, and sand, 
make an excellent compost. Manure-water is also an 
excellent’ material, with which they can be watered twice 
or thrice a week during the growing season. Exposed as 
they are, fully to the sun, they require a very abundant 
supply of water, which ought never to be neglected, be- 
cause if it is, the under-leaves will fall from the plants 
and make them unsightly. An abundant supply of water, 
and particularly manure-water at certain times, rich free 
soil, judicious “ stopping,’”’ and ordinary management in 
other respects, will always enstre an abundant bloom 
upon these plants in autumn and winter, when we have 
little else to render our greenhouses and conservatories 
ay. And as they are grown all the summer in the open 
air, those who have a cool vinery or any other empty 
house in the autumn, can easily have plenty of flowers at 
that season, with but little extra room. ‘They may be 
removed to the house about the middle of October, when 
some of the earlier kinds are just coming into flower. It 
is a bad plan to take them in too early, as the leaves gene- 
rally begin to fall soon afterwards. 
i Those who wish to make very large specimens of these 
plants with little trouble, sometimes plant them out in a 
rich border in April or May, as soon as the cuttings are 
rooted. Here they grow with great luxuriance, and are 
very large and bushy when the time comes for taking them 
and removing them into the greenhouse. In autumn 
they are taken up very carefully, and placed in a shaded 
situation for a few days, until they recover from the 
effects of the operation, and are then taken to the green- 
house. There is another plan for making small dwarf 
flowering specimens, which deserves especial notice. The 
young shoots which have grown to a considerable length 
have their points ‘‘layered’” about the month of August 
in small pots. As soon as they are well rooted they are 
cut from the parent stock, repotted, and placed for a 
short time ina shaded place until they recover. They are 
then subjected to the same treatment as the others, and 
generally flower on stems about a foot or 18 inches in 
height.—R. F. 
e 
be} 
AMATEUR’S GARDEN.—No. XIV. 
& Tux secret of obtaining a brilliant display of flowers 
throughout the season lies more in cultivating a great quan- 
tity of good plants than a great variety of sorts. Thus, 
at this season, the garden should be gay with Polyanthuses, 
Auriculas, double Primroses, the lovely little Omphalodes 
verna, Drabas, common Wallflowers, various species of 
A’rabis and Aubrétia, and. many other Alpine plants; 
while among shrubs nothing can be more beautiful, at 
this sea¥on, than the various kinds of Ribes and Bérberis, 
with the showy Magndlia conspicua, whose pure wax-like 
and deliciously fragrant flowers render it a treasure, with- 
out which every garden must be incomplete. These are 
plants comparatively common and easily obtained, yet 
how seldom is it that we see them grown in any quantity ; 
in fact, these good old things have been, of late years, 
altogether neglected; while we have been running after 
Dahlias and other ephemera, which require great pains to 
cultivate them well, and which frequently are no sooner in 
bloom than they are cut down by the frost. This is neither 
good taste nor good management, and therefore the Ama- 
teur is earnestly recommended to set about increasing 
his stock of spring-flowering plants. Flower-gardening, 
indeed, will never be well done unless the arrangement is 
made as the season passes on; thus, at this period it 
should be determined what plants are to be put in the 
beds next spring, and preparations should be made accord- 
ingly; and at the proper time a similar arrangement 
should be made for the summer and autumn display, in 
the coming year. 
Gardening is.an occupation wholly dependent on fore- 
thought, and although it cannot be expected that the 
Amateur, who only cultivates flowers as a little recreation, 
and to vary the monotony of business-life, should recol- 
lect all that requires to be grown in the fiower-garden, 
yet, by making memorandums at the proper time, and b 
referring to them occasionally, he might provide himself 
with many things which, by trusting to memory, are 
wholly forgotten until the season arrives when they should 
have been in bloom. 
What can be more beautiful than a large bed of com- 
mon garden Anemones? ‘These, when selected and 
grouped in separate beds, according to their complement- 
ary colours, are brilliant objects; yet how rarely do we 
see them extensively cultivated. This is a good season 
to sow them and, in fact, biennials of all kinds. The 
Anemone delights in a strong rich soil. The best way to 
sow it is to make the soil fine and light, and then to mix 
the seed with a quantity of dry mould ; scatter it thinly over 
the prepared border and cover it with sifted soil from the 
potting-shed. Seed sown now will produce flowering- 
plants this time next year, and there is an old saying with 
some truth in it, viz., that if you sow every month you 
will have Anemones in bloom throughout the year. 
Seed of Auriculas and Polyanthuses must be sown in 
pots and transplanted into rich light soil, and those who 
are partial to Gladioluses could not do better than sow 
some seed in heat, and transplant them towards the 
end of May into very rich soil; part of them will make 
flowering plants the first season, and the whole of them in 
the second, This subject will be entered into more fully 
next week.—W. P. Ayres: 29 EE 
HOME CORRESPONDENCE. 
Fixing Ammonia.—At p. 205 of the Chronicle I observe 
some excellent remarks on the management of manure- 
heaps; which, if they were only generally acted upon 
throughout the country, would speedily compel us artifi- 
cial-manure-manufacturers to turn our hands to another 
trade. I do not, however, consider, that we have any 
immediate cause of fear on this point, for no one has 
watched the movements of the public mind without ob- 
serving its slow progression towards those things which 
are proved to be the most conducive to its welfare. I 
trust I am not so selfish or so narrow-minded as to set 
my separate interests against those which affect the hap- 
piness and well-being of so many millions of my fellow- 
creatures, or to refuse to give all the information I can 
on this important subject, because it may perchance tend 
to injure me, ultimately, in my business. _ You will bear 
with me, then, for a few moments while I make an ob- 
servation or two on the substances you have named as 
Fixers. I will take that you have mentioned first—Oil 
of Vitriol. I know of only one objection to this; which 
is, if it he used in slight excess, it will retard or altoge- 
ther arrest that fermentation which it is so desirable to 
encourage ; for it is known that while alkalies and the 
alkaline earths favour eremacausis or natural decay, the 
