1843.] 
THE GARDENERS CHRONICLE. 
343 
that is, to the extent of the difference between the length 
of these compartments and those in which the Peas, 
Beans, and Cabbages are; which will be found to be about 
3 yards. J do not think this is of much consequence, as 
in the case of Potatoes, this extra quantity, though twice 
cropped, will be twice dunged, according to the directions 
after given ; but, if you find by experience that you can 
take a smaller quantity of Barley and late Potatoes serve, 
you may divide the garden into five equal principal 
compartments. There is only one more observation which 
need be made in this place, which is, that the Early 
Potato bed and the Onion bed are to be manured, as you 
will see by-and-by, every year; and (see the plan) as they 
occupy one side of the garden only, when they have gone 
Once round and come to the same place in 1836, they must 
be changed over to the opposite side. No. 8 must change 
places with Nos. 7 and 9, and No. 6 with No. 4, 
‘© Crops.—When you come to this place read over 
again the last four pages, and examine the plans atten- 
tively ; and by that time I hope all of you will be perfect 
in your lesson so far. Having taught you how to divide 
and lay out your gardens, I shall, in the next place, show 
you how and when to sow and plant the various crops, and 
where you may raise winter stuff in addition to the regular 
crops as shown upon the plan. You have hitherto been 
too much in the habit of planting any land you could get 
with Potatoes only, and you will perhaps be surprised at 
my setting out only about a third of your garden for this 
Crop ; I will therefore give you my reasons for this, The 
first is, that Potatoes yield much lese nourishment for the 
body than many other crops; secondly, they exhaust the 
land more than any : yet they are so easily cultivated, so 
Seldom fail, and aré in many respects so useful, that I 
allow them, what I think, a large proportion of your 
garden. ‘There are means by which men of science can 
find out the quantity of nourishing matter contained in 
the various produce of the earth. Several articles of food 
incommon use have been examined by very careful and 
clever men, who have had great experience in performing 
Nice experiments; and you may, therefore, be sure their 
Yeport is nearly correct, however different it may be from 
the opinions you may happen to have. You must suppose 
that you have 100 pounds weight of each of the articles 
Mentioned in the following list; the figures set opposite 
to each will show you the number of pounds of actual 
hourishment for the human body which each 100 pounds 
hy weight contains; the remainder passes through the 
body without assisting in any way to its support. 
100 Ibs. of Lentiles contain . 94 1bs, of nourishment. 
» ‘common Peas, 93 itt 
a French Beans (in grain), 92 ditto 
” Broad Beans . 89 ditto 
” reat + * . sh ditto 
» Butcher’s meat, taking 
one sort with another 35. ditto 
3 Potatoes : 25 ditto 
>” Carrots or Parsnips . 14 ditto 
Greens or Turnips. . 8 ditto 
I do not recommend the cultivation of Lentiles (a kind of 
Pea), because they have a bitter disagreeable taste; but 
in the year 1555, when there was a great famine in this 
country, it is said that theysaved thousands from perishing. 
« Mode of Cultivation.—Having numbered every bed 
on the plan, I shall now direct the cultivation of each, in 
its order, for the first year—presuming that you have 
trenched all the ground before winter, as after directed. 
o 1.—In the first week in February sow one row of 
Prussian Blue Peas, 4 feet from each side of this bed. 
hese will stand 5 feet apart. The first week in April 
Sow a row of Dwarf French Beans, within a foot of the 
edge on each side this bed, setting the seed 3 inches 
Apart in the row. As soon as the Peas are gathered, dig 
Over the bed, laying the haulm in the bottoms of the 
trenches as you go on, and plant out Savoys from the seed- 
bed (to be raised as after mentioned), in rows 18 inches 
apart; set the plants 16 inches from each other in the 
Ow. No. 2:—Dig over the last week in April. In the 
first week in May, plant out Harly York Cabbage from the 
Seed-bed ; the rows 18 inches apart, the plants at 16 inches 
istance from each other in the row. These directions only 
{pply to this first year, as you had not your gardens set 
Cut in time to crop this bed earlier. In future, the Cab- 
bage plants, the seed of which is to be sown in August, as 
directed in No. 6, are to be planted out from the nursery- 
ed the middle of October, to stand the winter, and 
ane in for spring Cabbage. (See directions as to No. 11, 
§ ich this bed will always follow.) No. 8, Dig over, as 
ee as the Lettuce plants in the seed-bed are 2 or 3 
Hee high; plant out a row of them on each side of the 
ie 1 foot from the edge. On the 13th May, or as near 
a day as possible, sow Kidney Beans (Scarlet Runners), 
ihelnn within each row of Lettuce plants; set the seeds 3 
then apart. _As soon as they are 3 inches high earth 
etn up, and in the course of two or three days after, stick 
Aja eae 4,—Dig over the first week in April, and 
se ut the middle of the month sow Dwarf Imperial Peas 
Hie eae crop; one row at 3 feet from each edge of 
i ed, and one in the centre. The Peas I have recom- 
ended will do without sticks ; but if you can easily get 
Be Your crops will be much more abundant. No. 5.— 
Febp Over the end of January, and the first week in 
uary sow 3 rows of Long Pod Beans, at 2 feet 6 inches 
In the middle of April sow 3 rows more, at the like 
» tocome in for a second crop. As soon as the 
N 
they, about 3 barrows-full of manure over this bed 
un 
L 
As soon as the Onions are taken up plant out York or 
Barnes Cabbage, at the same distance as the Savoys. 
No. 6*.—The end of February, level 1 yard square of this 
bed, and work the surface fine. First week in March sow 
seeds for Early York Cabbage ; sow half another yard with 
Lettuce seed. In the middle of April, level and work in 
like manner 4 square yards more, and sow seeds of Savoys, 
Scotch Kale, Milan Kale, and Borecole, 1 yard of each. 
In June prepare another yard square, and sow seed of 
York oréBarnes Cabbage. About the 12th of August 
prepare and sow another yard with Early York Cabbage 
seed. As soon as the plants in any of these seed-beds are 
fit to move, get ready a piece of ground on this bed, suffi- 
ciently large to take as many plants of the sort as you will 
want to plant out to stand, and then prick out the plants 
3 inches apart every way, You must prick ont rather 
more than will fillthe bed in which they are to stand for a 
crop, as some may fail. This transplanting will make the 
plants much stronger, and produce finer heads, than would 
be the case if planted out at once from the seed-bed. 
Nos. 7 and 9.—Dig over in February ; sow Carrot seed in 
one bed, and Parsnip seed in the other: these seeds to be 
sown in drills 1 foot apart, the Parsnip seed rather deeper 
than the Carrot. When the plants come up, thin them 
out to the distance of from 6 to 9 inches in the row, 
according to the depth and quality of the ground. The 
size of these crops will be much increased by loosening 
the earth to the depth of 3 or 4 inches between the 
drills occasionally, in dry weather, with a two-pronged hoe. 
No. 8. Lay eight barrows-full of dung in heaps on this 
bed in February. The first week in March, throw the 
bed up in ridges, just two feet apart, leaving your first 
trench, on each side the bed, 18 inches from the edge. 
When this is done, you will have 12 trenches. Lay your 
necessarily be the same as they occupied the year before ; Onion seed, broadcast, over ayes remainder of the bed. (be 
dung equally along the bottom of each trench: draw 
about four or five inches of mould down upon the dung, 
then plant Early Potatoes (the Frame, or Ash-Leaved Kid- 
ney,) three or four inches deep, and one foot from each 
other inthe row. You are all apt to plant your Potatoes 
too near together, under a mistaken notion that, if you 
plant wide, you are losing ground ; but I know, from 
practice, that you gain Potatoes by it. I plant my own 
Early Potatoes in rows three feet apart, and in deeper soil 
than yours. As soon as the plants appear above ground, 
hoe the whole over lightly ; when about four inches high, 
earth up moderately ; in a few days draw up the remain- 
ing earth to them. It is a bad plan to put by small 
Potatoes for seed ; good sized, well-grown fruit should be 
selected for this purpose. If these Potatoes are not all 
dug for use by the Ist of August, the rest should be got 
up immediately. The haulm of Potatoes soon rots in the 
ground, and makes good manure; therefore, when you 
begin to take up your Potatoes, pick off the haulm of the 
first row, and lay it on the ground, next the edge of the 
bed, from which all the mould will have been drawn in 
earthing up the plants; and when this row of Potatoes is 
taken up, throw the mould back upon the haulm 3 pro- 
ceed thus with every row, making the ground good and 
level as you go on, ready for the next crop ; this will 
save digging all over again. Plant out Milan Kale, as fast 
as the first Potatoes are cleared off, to the extent of one 
half the bed, as this should be planted as early as possible. 
In the beginning of August, plant out from the seed-bed, 
Borecole, over the other half of this bed. Set the plants 
in rows two feet apart, and at 18 inches distance from 
each other in the row. These will be found very service- 
able during the winter and spring. If you think Iam 
providing you with more green food than is desirable, 
considering how little nourishment it affords, I must tell 
you that Iam thinking of your good friend the pig, as 
well as of you; and that this ground would be lying idle 
from July till the middle of April, if it were not thus 
employed. No. 10. Lay on 12 or 14 parrows-full of 
manure the last week in April; throw up this bed in 
ridges, in the same manner as directed for No. 8, except- 
ing that these trenches must be three feet apart. The 
first week in May, plant late Potatoes. Recollect what I 
have before said in selecting your seed; and treat this 
crop, throughout, as I have directed for No.8; do not 
let any one persuade you to form the rows nearer than 
three feet, nor plant nearer in the row than one foot. If 
the sort of seed you use produces high and strong haulm, 
the rows should be four feet apart. You should not use 
seed grown on the same soil more than two years at any 
rate; it would be better tochange your seed and the sort 
of Potato every year. As soon as the Potatoes are dug 
up, throw this bed up into ridges, three feet apart, in 
order that the ground may mellow, and work fine for the 
Barley crop, which will always follow the Potatoes. 
No. ll. This bed ‘is intended for Barley, and ought to 
roduce more than enough to fatten the pig thoroughly. 
{ shall not pretend to offer you any advice about this.crop, 
for I suspect you know much more about it than I do. 
‘As soon as the Barley is off, you should lay out beds Nos. 
,2, and 3, for the next year’s crop. Dig over the barley 
stubble, where the bed No. 2 will stand the next year, and 
get it ready for the Early York Cabbage, to be planted out 
jn the middle of October. The other two beds may be 
ridged up to stand the winter. The farmers will give you 
good wheat straw in exchange for your barley straw, which 
will be more serviceable to you, to thatch your Potato 
heap, and to litter the pig. Having gone over every bed 
e 
in the garden, the plans will be a sufficient guide to you 
for the cropping for the second and third years ; you will 
then proceed with the same plan during the fourth and 
fifth years, moving every crop forward on the ground one 
compartment each year, and in the sixth, they will all come 
round to the same places they are to occupy in the first. 
[We shall complete this at an early opportunity.) 
GARDEN MEMORANDA. 
Messrs. Loddiges’, Hackney.—The Orchidaceous houses at this 
place are now shaded for the season; the material used being 
broad bands of straw, which are twisted loosely, and stretched 
across the roof, on the outside, at about a foot apart. They are 
kept on permanently, and the loose and straggling straws seem 
sufficient to shade the spaces between the bands. All the prin- 
cipal houses here are now heated by Rogers’s conical boiler, 
which is found to answer admirably. In the Orchidaceous 
stoves there is at present in bloom Oncidium bifolium, one of the 
showiest and most interesting of the tribe for growing on blocks, 
spending. It has been flowering for several weeks. The 
delightful little Mantisia saltatoria, the column of whose flowers 
oscillates with the slightest touch, and which is called from this 
circumstance, as well as the gracefulness of its motion, “ 
dancing girls,” is developing its purple and yellow blossoms 
very numerously. Galeandra Devoniana, a noble species, the 
superb Vanda teres, Camarotis purpurea, a variety of the fine 
old Maxillaria Harrisonize, with nearly pure white sepals and petals 
alarge specimen of Phaius bicolor, Celogyne undulata, a rare 
but not very specious plant 
rum, with their splendid orange blooms, and a new Dendrobium, 
from Manilla, with tall stems, like those of D. undulatum, bat 
not swollen at the base, and which has borne strong upright 
racemes of peculiar and elegant flowers for the last two or three 
months, are also fiowering finely. There is likewise the pretty 
new Eria longilabris, with long racemes of white blossoms, 
which become reddish in the centre of the lip, and Pleurothallis 
strupifolia, a singular species, with interesting pink and brownis! 
mottled flowers. In.a cooler house, and exhibiting, by the rich- 
ness of their colours, the desirableness of retarding the floral 
development of these plants, as well as the necessity of keeping 
them back, for succession, are Dendrébium pulchellum, in allits 
loveliness, D. undulatum, with its flowers stronger and darker 
than common, and several Oncidia. Placed in a corner of this 
erection is a gigantic specimen of Tamus elephantipes, or the 
Elephant’s foot; its singular trunk, or stem, @) out two feet 
high and two feet six inches in diameter. It is now throwing 
out young shoots from its summit. The delicately-white- 
flowered Dendrébium Heyneanum, and the curious little linguee- 
forme, are blooming in the same The stove plants in 
plossom are, Tillandsia xiphioides, which is growing in the 
of a basket of some small Dendrobiums, and bearing white 
v ike flowers, which have a most delicious scent of Lemons. 
It is a delightful species for hanging up ina stove, as it will sub- 
sist entirely on air and water, without any soil. Epidendrum. 
selligerum, one of the sweetest of Orchidaceous plants, an 
hardly inferior to E. ionosmum in fragrance, is blossoming near 
it. Begénia manicata, a new species, with singular frill-like 
appendages to the stalks of its leaves, is just passing out of 
flower, having been in a blooming state several months; it pro- 
duces airy panicles of pretty whitish blossoms. Cyrtéceras re- 
fle: lant which has been blooming since the winter, 
i xy inflorescence most abundantly. Petraa 
mB 
in extraordinary quantities this season, and is a valuable shrub 
for the greenhouse. We saw, too, a large stock of 
Chorozema ovata, in much superior health to that in which it is 
ordinarily met with. A widely-spreading specimen of Ber! s 
empetrifolia was covered with its smali golden flower-balls in 
one of the pits, and strongly recommends itself to notice. On. 
the margin of an out-door cistern [was the double jvariety of 
Caltha palustris, an extremely beautiful plant, well adapted for 
either aquariums or any wet places. Messrs. Loddiges have 
commenced using charcoal pretty largely in the culture of their 
Orchidaceze, and it seems to be admirably suitable. They also 
char the surface of the blocks of wood on which they suspend 
these plants, and by this means the wood is rendered more 
durable; there is no bark eel off by decay and carry the 
plant along with it; a favourable surface is formed for the roots 
of the plants to cling to, and all the fungi which appear so 
numerously on common logs appear to be prevented from 
fastening on these.— C., May 11 
K,, Mai 
IRebielos. 
Remarks on the Manag é Orchid Plants, 
with a Catalogue of those in the Collection of J.C. 
Lyons, Ladiston. (Private Circulation. 
Tus little work has been gratuitously circulated, by J.C. 
Lyons, Esq., of Ladiston, Treland, in order to remove 
out of the way of amateurs the difficulties which he him- 
self experienced at first in the cultivation of the interest- 
ing tribe to which it relates. It is divided into a general 
essay on the Culture of the Orchidacee ; a Calendar of 
Monthly Operations necessary in effecting the same, and 
a descriptive list of those which the Author possesses, 
with a few superior ones not in his collection. The last 
section includes a number of excellent hints adapted to 
the members of each genus separately. In the first, the 
subject is treated more in the abstract ; and all the plans 
suggested are carefully based on the principles of science. 
The Epiphytal kinds, or those which grow on trees or 
other objects, from which they receive no nourishment, 
are arranged in four classes, as follows :— 
“* 1st. Those species found in low dense woods, where 
scarcely any sun can penetrate. These, therefore, require 
shading from the rays of the sun, either from large plants 
in the house, or from creepers, or by some other means, 
and must have a hot and moist atmosphere. 
species found growing on trees, near to open brakes in 
the woods, where they receive a little sun, plenty of light, 
and a free but damp atmosphere. These should have a 
similar atmosphere, but will endure more sunshine than 
the last. The greatest part of the species come under this 
head. 3d. Those species found growing on single trees, 
in damp but exposed situations. These must also have a 
damp atmosphere and plenty of heat ; but they thrive best 
if exposed to the sun, except just at mid-day, for although 
the sun in the tropics shines with great power, it must be 
remembered that the plants receive considerable shelter 
from the branches of the trees, (although standing single) 
on which they grow, 4th. Those species found growing 
on single trees, in elevated situations, where they are sub- 
jected to a drier air, and the burning rays of a tropical sun. 
These, therefore, require a lower temperature, less humi- 
dity, and nearly a full exposure to the rays of the sun.’’ 
Having spoken of the season of rest, the Author goes 
on to mention the growing period, and on this head he 
observes,—‘* About five o’clock, or as soon as the heat of 
the sun is rather on the decline, during the months of 
June, July, and August, it will be found of the greatest 
benefit to give the plants a thorough good syringing, with 
