736 THE GARDENERS’ 
CHRONICLE. 
[Ocr. 21, 
very different creatures to what they were immediately 
after their birth. 
On opening the Scale and taking out the female, I found 
that she was not attached to the shield, and that conse- 
quently this Mussel-scale is not a true Coccus, but an 
Aspidiotus ; it was a fat yellow-green maggot, nearly 
orbicular, very convex, shining, with distinct transverse 
strie, indicating the abdominal segment; a pale brown 
line was visible down the back, from the alimentary canal, 
shining through the thin and transparent skin (fig. 6). 
looked in vain for a rostrum in the only female I could 
find alive, and I was equally unable to detect any legs or 
eyes; indeed, it seems very doubtful whether the’ latter 
are possessed by any of the female Coccide in their adult 
state, although they are very distinct, but very minute 
when they are first hatched. 
A contributor to the ‘Gardeners’ Magazine ’’ says, 
“* A scale of a brown colour, pointed at both ends, and less 
than half the size of a seed of common Flax, abounds in 
the North of Cambridgeshire, on the branchlets of old 
Apple-trees, and in unlading the trees in autumn of their 
ruddy riches, here and there an Apple occurs to whose 
rind one or more of these scales firmly adhere, and where 
it must have become fixed before the Apple’s growth was 
finished ; as when the scale is removed, a slight depres- 
sion in the rind of the Apple is perceptible.’? The same 
scale, it is said, is very prevalent in Cheshire on the Pear- 
trees, where it is considered to be injurious to the fruit, 
as by clinging to the rind it prevents the fruit from swell- 
ing to its full size. Itis asserted that Peaches, Apricots, 
Plums, &c., suffer from the attacks of the Mussel-scale, 
and if young Ribston-pippins, and some varieties of Pears 
be planted near any other Apple or Pear-tree that already 
supports these insects, they will speedily migrate to them. 
The same observer says, “ I believe this disease is mostly, if 
not entirely, confined to wall-fruit in the open air, stand- 
ards not affording them sufficient warmth and shelter 
during our winters especially in Scotland, where they have 
been very abundant and very troublesome. They attach 
themselves to the bark, and by means of their rostrum 
they soon exhaust a branch so completely of its sap, that 
it withers and dies.’’? Mr. Ingpen recommends “ two or 
three applications in the spring, at intervals of one or two 
weeks, of strong lime-water with a brush, anda dusting of 
quicklime before the branches get dry; or a washing of 
soft soap and water, using also the powdered lime,’’ which 
is perfectly harmless to vegetable life. 
\ va 
Although it is generally trained trees that are most 
attacked by the Mussel-scales, I have seen standards so 
covered with them, that they were completely hide-bound 
it might be said, so that it was impossible for the trees to 
increase in size. I doubt not that the best plan for get- 
ting rid of these Scales is to scrape the bark with a wooden 
knife, so as to bruise and crush the females without 
lacerating the tree, and immediately after to wash over the 
trunk and branches with some gas-tar. If any other 
mixture should be preferred, the best season for applying 
it will be in May, when the young ones are creeping from 
under the scales, and are easily destroyed ; but they are 
so minute that it will be necessary to use a magnifying- 
glass to ascertain when they are hatched and in motion.— 
Ruricola. 
AMATEUR’S GARDEN.—No. XLII. 
Tue frosts have at length settled the flowers for the 
season, and the falling leaves warn us that winter is at 
hand. If greenhouse plants were housed before the frost 
began, they will now require but little attention except to 
give them plenty of air and keep them as hardy as possible. 
Some of the most forward of the Cinerarias which are now 
shawing bloom will require to be repotted, and probably 
some of the earliest potted young plants of Calceolarias 
and Pelargoniums would be the better for a little more pot- 
room, From this time to the other side of Christmas 
you can scarcely keep your Pelargoniums too dry, so long 
as they do not flag, and young plants of kinds that do not 
bloom freely should be rather cramped for pot-room, 
The buds of the earliest Chrysanthemums are now swell- 
ing fast, and where they promise to bloom freely it will be 
4s well to thin the blooms out a little, and that without 
delay. The plants must be well supplied with moisture, and 
if a little weak liquid manure is given to them occasionally 
it will be of service—however, let it be weal, for it is 
wrong to give plants strong manure or gross food at a 
time when there is not sufficient light to elaborate the 
juices properly. Plants in frames cannot have too much 
air or be kept too cold, so long as they are not frosted ; 
but above all things keep them free from rain and from 
becoming wet in any way. 
In the flower-garden the principal work will be to get 
the beds cleared of the old plants, and prepared ready for 
lanting with Tulips, Hyacinths, Ranunculuses, &c., &c. 
n clearing the old plants away, roots of Salvia patens, 
Lobelias, Dablias, and the like, may be stowed in a dry 
shed or cellar, and covered with dry tan, ashes, or leaf- 
mould, until the spring. Itisnot advisable to keep Bulbs 
of Tigridias dry through the winter, as they seldom 
get sufficiently ripened in this country, and to dry a bulb 
that is not fully ripe is certainly injurious to it. For 
some years I have made it a rule to place these bulbs 
under the greenhouse stage, and I have invariably suc- 
ceeded in keeping them better than when I used to dry 
them off. Where there is convenience and a little heat—if 
bottom-heat all the better—it is a good plan to pot a 
quantity of the best scarlet and variegated Pelargoniums, 
and shorten in the branches to where they are pretty well 
ripened. These, if forced for a few weeks, to make them 
form young shoots an inch long, and then hardened off in 
the greenhouse until spring, will make beautiful dwarf 
bushy plants for bedding out, and will bloom more pro- 
fusely than young luxuriant plants. In the Chronicle of 
last year, Mr. Gordon recommended Pelargoniums and 
such like strong-growing plants to be preserved through 
the winter in large boxes in layers of dry peat, and then to 
place the boxes in some dry room or cellar ; and doubtless 
this is an excellent plan for agreat number of things. The 
plants may be taken out of the boxes, and potted towards 
the end of March, and will make pretty plants for planting 
out in May. 
Trenching and all kinds of new ground work must be 
proceeded with as fast as possible, so as to get all altera- 
tions completed before the new year.—W. P. Ayres, 
Brooklands. 
LIST OF FLOWERING PLANTS FOR FORCING. 
As the readers of the Chronicle have shown much in- 
terest of late in Flower-forcing, I beg to submit a list, 
with afew hasty remarks thereon, which may serve to 
refresh the memory of those who are preparing for a win- 
ter campaign of this kind ; and, in the first place, the sub- 
ject naturally divides itself into three heads: viz., Ist, 
tribes which naturally bloom through winter ; 2d, retarded 
autumn flowers ; 3d, early forcing. This subject is yet in 
its infancy, if we consider the eligibility of many plants, 
which have either been introduced, or brought into public 
notice afresh, within the last few years. Mr. Beaton has, 
I perceive, fairly caught the mania, and has done much 
towards drawing attention to the subject; I hope he will 
continue his labours on this head, as he is both able, 
and has the opportunity, to advance the branch of garden- 
ing. I will now submit my enumeration of kinds as they 
occur to me, and I hope that critics, instead of railing at 
me, will employ their time in adding to or correcting the 
lists, as, under present circumstances, it is evident that 
such lists must be somewhat imperfect. If the subject 
proves interesting to the readers of the Chronicle, I shall 
be induced, as the long winter nights come on, to continue 
observations of a practical nature on the various subjects 
1 Roses, hybrid China, 26 Phaius, F N 
a petual, &c., FR 27 Mignonette, F R. 
Provens tribes, F 28 Mezereon, N 
3 
4 Sweet Briar, F 20 Hepaticas, N 
5 Cinerarias, F R N 30 Scillas, N 
6 Bulbs, chiefly Dutch, as per | 31 Helleborus hyemalis, N 
the London lists, F N 32 Camellias, FR 
vf 
8 
Hedychiums (see Mr.Beaton’s | 33 Oranges, 
emarks in the Chronicle), F | 34 Chrysanthemums, R N 
Lily of the Valley, 5 Chorozemas, N 
Amaryllis of all kinds, F N 36 Calceolarias, F R 
10 Pancratiums, F 37 Pinks, F R. 
11 Lachenalias, F N 38 Gardenias, F 
12 Violets, F N 9 Chimonanthus, F N 
13 Azaleas, North American, and | 40 Honeysuckle, 
their hardy hybrids, F Linum flayum arboreum, F 
14 Azaleas, Indian, and their | 42 Ericas, winter-flowering sorts, 
tender hybrids, 
15 Rhododendrons, various, F 43 Ribes sanguineum, F 
16 Bog plants in general, as Rho- | 44 Correeas, F 
dora, Daphne, Kalmia, Erica, | 45 Cytisus canariensis, and 
&e. &e., FN 0 
17 Persian Lilacs, F 46 Epacrises, F 
18 Poinsettias, N 47 Tussilago fragrans, F N 
19 Gesnera elongata, &c., F N 48 Pultenzea stricta, F 
20 Cyclamens, N 4 ti, F 
21 Chinese Primrose, F N 50 Justicia salicifolia, F R 
22 Geraniums, or rather Pelar- | 51 Cypripediums, N 
goniums, selected by their| 52 Polygalas, R 
habits and adaptability, F R | 53 Lechenaultia, R 
3 Euphorbias, RN i 
4 Tropzolum tricolorum, F 55 Plumbago capensis and rosea, 
5 Bletias, FN 
Abbreviations used:—F, forced flowers; R, retarded summer or 
autumn flowers; N, natural season of flowering. 
Most or all of the above list possess capabilities for 
blooming through winter or the dull season—say from the 
beginning of November to the end of March, after which 
flowers are easily obtained. For many of them a cool pit 
or frame would suffice : for others, a common dung frame ; 
and hence the small amateur may indulge in flower-forcing 
as well as his more wealthy neighbour. For the generality 
of plants in this list, however, something more complete 
is wanted, and one grand desideratum is, to secure a per- 
manent bottom-heat of 80° to 85°. The next grand point 
is abundance of light—at least a roof capable of receiving 
all that the season affords ; and these, with a perfect com- 
mand of atmosphere and moisture, constitute the three 
great requisites. However, much may be done during 
summer previous to the forcing of any given tribe; and 
one of the principal maxims may be illustrated by the old 
country saying, viz., ‘‘ Early to bed, early to rise.” If 
thorough justice could be done to the subject, I am per- 
suaded that many things should be forced into wood 
slightly in the previous spring ; in fact, take the old 
Provens and Moss Rose for instance : if these must be 
obtained by Christmas, they ought to be accelerated as 
early in the previous spring as the beginning of March, in 
some comfortable pit, with, if possible, a small amount of 
bottom-heat. These plants, with proper management, 
ought to be turning yellow in the leaf by the early part of 
September, and by the end of that month should be re- 
moved to the coldest situation the garden affords ; in fact, 
behind some north wall, to gather the principle of excita- 
bility —R, Errington, 
HOME CORRESPONDENCE. 
Planting.—I read in the Chronicle of the 16th and of 
the 30th September letters on the subject of Planting. In 
the former was one article, signed ‘‘ W. H. Humphreys, 
Vicar’s Cross Nursery ;’’ in the latter were two—the first 
was headed ‘“‘ Planting,’’ the last was signed ‘* Quercus.’” 
The sentiments conveyed in the one signed “ Quercus” 
are so much at variance with those of the two others, 
that I beg to call attention to their contents. But it is 
necessary first to observe, that what I say on the subject 
of Plantations are not to be considered as objects of indi- 
vidual but of national importance ; for the planter, in 19 
cases out of 20, does not benefit by his plantations in the 
way of profit, although he may rejoice in his work be- 
cause he feels that he is doing good to his country and to 
those that come after him. This, I think, is true patriot- 
ism! Now if this is so, I cannot concur in the opinion 
of ‘Quercus,’ nor do I think it of equal value with that 
of Mr. Humphreys, who, writing from a Nursery, is inte- 
rested in that on which he writes, and, with experience on 
his side, avows, by his signature, his readiness to stand 
by his statements—nay, more, he recommends the system 
which he finds profitable, after having practised it for a 
period of 27 years on a large plantation of 450 acres. 
The other letter, headed ‘‘ Planting,’’ is in strict accord- 
ance with Mr. Humphreys’ report; and he heartily re- 
joices in that which he personally visited and examined. 
Now it is necessary that ‘‘ Quercus’’ should bring forward 
some testimony to support his views similar to that which 
Mr. Humphreys and “R,S.L.’’ have done, and point 
out some plantations formed of the same extent, or at 
least of similar age, where investigation might be made; 
so that those who may be disposed to plant might decide 
what method to adopt. The plantations of Dr. Thackeray 
are specified as evidence of the system approved of by 
Mr. Hi hreys, iy inati and by the planter, 
“©R.S.L.,” on the same conviction, viz., ocular demon- 
stration, Nerquis (the scene of these plantations) is, I 
believe, not 15 miles from Chester, and therefore can 
easily be visited. Now, let “ Quercus’’ point out planta- 
tions of the same age and extent in any district and at 
the same elevation, 800 feet above the level of the sea; 
so that gentlemen desirous to serve their country and 
adorn it by plantations may visit each, and then decide 
which course they ought to follow. I shall be gratified if 
I find even a single individual has been led by these re-~ 
marks to make personal investigation into so important a 
matter, in order that he may decide whether he should 
prune, as Dr. Thackeray has done, or only occasionally, 
as recommended by ‘‘ Quercus.”’ I think that Dr. 
Thackeray, in employing his means so largely in ornament- 
ing the mountains near him, is conferring a benefit on his 
country, and setting an example well worthy imitation.— 
Pro bono Publico. 
Large Egg.—Mr. J. Cook, of Garstang, has a duck of 
the common species that produced an egg on Monday 
last, Oct. 9, 1843, which weighed four ounces and a 
quarter.—Facile. 
Heating.—Wanting to get a great quantity of damp or 
dry heat, as the case may be, I have built a vertical tank 
or anintended warm wall round a small forcing-house, 
and while it is drying I should feel greatly obliged by a 
word of information and advice from any of your corre~ 
spondents as to the best plan to be adopted should my 
own scheme fail in operation. After various inquiries 
as to the merits and demerits of all manner of cements, 
and from fear of any insecure plastered affair, I determined 
from my aggregate of information to adopt the following 
plan, executed by the best workmen and with the best 
materials. I used a kind of soapy-working stone-mortar, 
made from what in Norfolk we call Heydon Lime—they 
say that this lime will set under water; it is used in all 
water-works, and its qualities are much talked of. Ona 
capital foundation laid in this mortar I had 12-inch 
pavements, (having been thoroughly soaked in water ;) 
placed horizontally ; upon these are set, edgeways, other 
12-inch pavements, two deep, and 54 inches apart; at the 
backjof theseare laid hard white bricks on edge, (also perfectly 
saturated with water,) with a half-inch cavity between the 
pavements and brick-work, which is filled with grouting. 
All this was very carefully and slowly done with the afore- 
said mortar; and which, supported all ways, I expect will 
form a perfectly solid mass to contain the water, My 
boiler allows me 18 or 20 inches in depth, which, by 5+ 
inches in width, gives me a great body of water for heat- 
ing. The question I want to ask is, whether you think 
this plan will stand moderately hot, for it will not be boil- 
ing, water? If not, what would you recommend to make 
the sides impervious to hot water? Will the water form 
a sufficient deposit to stop the pores? Do you think that 
the hot water acting upon the mortar will act as a solvent 
to it? Is there any chemical solution that would saturate 
and harden so as to stop leakage should it occur? Would 
you paint the joints with any particular cement? I at 
first thought of your recommendation of Francis and Co., 
No. 2 cement, oiled and turpentined, but all the prac- 
tical men say that this kind of casing will not stand satis 
factorily, or near so well as my plan will do. There is 
Rock Park Cement—and I thought of some kind of grease 
mixed with the lime, &c. &c., or perhaps, as I have heard, 
Naphtha-varnish might be tried for the inside ; but I have 
my doubts as to the efficacy of these. 1 shall be thankful 
for any suggestion ; and should my plan succeed, or should 
I adopt any other, I shall be glad to propagate through 
your Chronicle any particulars or information T can ee 
respecting it. In your “ Home Correspondence Mr. Me 
Hurst of Warrington mentions heating by earthen pipes: 
would you, or would he, be kind enough to inform me witl 
what material they are jointed, or how the joints are put 
