498 
NATURE 
[ Oct. 20, 1870 
of the commonest and worst description. If people would 
only trouble themselves to think that cocoa-nibs, which 
are simply the roasted seeds without any preparation, are 
retailed at 1s. 4. per lb., how can they expect to obtain an 
equally genuine article in a finely-pulverised state, and 
packed in tinfoil and a showy outward cover, at the same 
price? which is what the so-called ‘ Homeeopathic ” and 
similarly prepared cocoasare soldat. Expensive machinery 
in the first place, and the constant wear and tear of the 
same, the consumption of fuel in the steam apparatus, and 
the expense of packing, have all to be paid for by the con- 
Fic. 1.—Section of Cocoa-Nib as seen under the micrascope 
sumer, not by charging him a directly higher money price, 
but by increasing the bulk or weight of the article by 
adding foreign substances of a much cheaper description, 
and, which is frequently done in the commoner kinds of 
cocoa, bad or damaged seeds themselves. There is one 
thing to be said in favour of our principal cocoa manufac- 
turers, that they seldom advertise these powdered cocoas 
as genuine; they either leave out that important word 
altogether or call them “ prepared” cocoas, and this word 
should be borne in mind by those who wish to avoid the 
prepared and to obtain the real article, and are conse- 
quently ready to paya fair price for such. If it is impos- 
sible to procure genuine powdered cocoa at 15. 4d. per lb., 
Fic. 2,—‘‘ Soluble Cocoa” as seen-under the microscope 
still more impossible is it at 67., which is the price paid by 
the poorer classes for an article called “Soluble Cocoa,” 
sold in 3b. packets at 13d. each, and largely consumed by 
them. The very fact of its low price ought to be sufficient 
to tell us pretty plainly that a very small quantity of cocoa, 
and that of an inferior description, is to be found in such 
a packet. It contains a large amount of common fat, the 
presence of which can be detected by smearing a little on 
a piece of glass, and can be still more clearly seen on a 
glass slide under a microscope. The addition of fat adds 
to the weight, while, to increase the bulk, a very large 
quantity of starch is added, which is the cause of the 
thickening of the beverage in the cup. If a little of this 
so-called cocoa be placed on the tongue and rubbed 
against the roof of the mouth, it will be found to grate 
against the palate, and, moreover, to have a decidedly 
chalky or earthy flavour. The spoon also grates against 
the sediment at the bottom of the cup, clearly showing 
the presence of mineral matter. 
Until within the last few years, all these powdered 
cocoas were more or less “prepared,” so that pure 
cocoa could not be obtained in this convenient form. 
An article, called “Cocoa Essence,” recently intro- 
duced, has, however, dispelled this notion. We all 
know that the cocoa-seed naturally contains a large 
quantity of butter or fat (about 50 per cent.) which 
makes it too rich or heavy a beverage for many 
persons, and this more especially when we consider that 
other elements of nutrition, such as albumen, are also 
present. To deprive it entirely of its butter would be to 
take away one of its valuable principles; but it is possible 
to have too much of a good thing ; therefore, by taking 
away about two-thirds of the butter the cocoa itself is not 
only improved in a dietetical point of view, but the addi- 
tion of sugar, arrowroot, &c., is rendered unnecessary to 
take up or balance the fatty portion. Those who wish 
for pure cocoa in a convenient form should therefore 
obtain the “Cocoa Essence.” It is sold in 30z. packets 
at 6@. each. A small spoonful is sufficient for one cup, 
and, unlike the “ Homeceopathic,” ‘ Soluble,” and other 
similar cocoas, it is not mixed with milk, but with a little 
boiling water, and stirred for a second or two until it is 
Fic. 3.—Mieroscopical appearance of “‘ Cocoa Essence” 
dissolved into a fine paste, the cup is then filled with 
boiling water, and milk and sugar added to please the 
taste. As no sugar is used in the manufacture of this 
article, it requires the addition of a larger quantity than 
any of the so-called prepared cocoas, and as no starch 
enters into its composition, the beverage is as clear asa 
cup of well-strained coffee. It is quite as portable as any 
of the packet cocoas, and as easily mixed. Its extra cost, 
in the first instance, is fully compensated by its purity, and 
by the fact that a smaller quantity is required for each 
cup. It is, moreover, a proof of the extensive adulteration 
of those kinds which are retailed at 1s. 4d. or Is. 6d. 
per lb. 
To such an extent has the public palate been led to 
prefer the flavour of many adulterated articles to that of 
the genuine, that we believe a great proportion of those 
who take cocoa really do prefer the thickened soup-like 
preparation made from the highly-flavoured and doctored 
sorts to an infusion of the pure seeds. If such people 
would think for one moment why and for what purpose 
they take this or that kind of food, and what are the 
properties.and effects on the system of the articles they 
are supposed to consume, and what those of the articles 
they actually do consume, a much better state of things 
might be brought about, for, pending the appointment of 
a public analyst, the head of every household might make 
himself analyst to his own family, and so see that he does 
not get cheated either in pocket or health. 
JOHN R. JACKSON 
