152 Report of a Journey Around the World. 



Before it was fully light enough to read my watch, laborers were 

 at their day's task in the rice ponds, and as we passed native houses 

 a few Javans appeared wrapped in sheets, while here and there a 

 naked little boy standing on the verandah, oblivious of the cold 

 damp air or the passer by, was making his morning offering to 

 Ceres, or perhaps to no special god as so many church-goers in 

 Christian countries pay their devotions. 



It soon became a puzzle to make out what the increasing num- 

 ber of native travelers were carrying in their baskets on their way 

 to town. I could recognize potatoes, beets, cucumbers, firewood, 

 eggs, nuts, baskets, paddy; but there were flat baskets filled with 

 mysterious cakes, square-cut and of a yellowish, mottled color, 

 which I at first took for cheese, but as I passed them there was 

 no cheesy odor, so I imagined crude wax, badly mixed bread, and 

 so on, but have not yet solved the puzzle. Not many of the houses 

 were yet open, but food stalls were tempting the early and perhaps 

 breakfastless traveler. 



It was bright day when we got to Tjisoeroepan and pulled up 

 at the Villa Pauline, which is situated in the midst of an extensive 

 garden in which dahlias and roses were prominent. I found more 

 flowers on my return, but was now busy in getting my paard, which 

 soon arrived, a strong-looking pony with a very small saddle. 

 Rejoiced to be again on horseback, I overlooked as well as over- 

 rode this saddle, from which presumption I am still suffering as I 

 sit on a soft cushion writing these notes. Two pleasant young 

 Javans, one to take the place of a wegwijzer or guide, the other 

 as paardenjongen or horsesboy, ran by my steed, who did not seem 

 willing, or at least anxious, to earn- his heavy burden away from 

 home; he returned at increased speed. Some way in the little 

 town, with plenty of time to admire the good roads and solid con- 

 crete culverts, and bridges with walls curved inward so that only 

 one carriage could pass at once ; the comfortable bambu houses 

 with neat fences of the same material in varied patterns, the guide- 

 posts, that I could not always read, and the milestones that may and 

 probably did measure something else, were all on hand : indeed I 

 found my rather crooked way back by their means, as my paard 

 kept generally ahead of the jongen and needed urging no longer. 



It was interesting to see the passage from village to plantation 



as the road rose rather rapidly, and then to open land with well 



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