154 Report of a Journey Around the World. 



taken it ready-lighted from some receptacle (the Javanese seem to 

 have no pockets, but their usual dress may be considered one uni- 

 versal pocket). The smell was nasty, but I had not the heart to 

 stop him from the comfort he seemed to get during his disagreeable 

 drive, and I was later rewarded for my selfdenial by a whiff of my 

 favorite champaca. 



Where we stopped the ground was white with the fallen blos- 

 soms of a tree far above our heads, and this tree was rather common. 

 A small pink blossom on a trailing plant was bright on the banks, 

 and the tall stems of a plant of the ginger family like an Alpinia, 

 was a marked feature of the flora just here ; later on a long-branch- 

 ing raspberry with light green leaves, much resembling the Ha- 

 waiian akala, stretched out of the jungle over the pathway, and 

 another Hawaiian acquaintance (I can hardly call it friend), the 

 branching fern Gleichenia in two species, one certainly Hawaiian, 

 monopolized the thicket on either side. Higher up were the brakes 

 (Pfcris aquilina) of world-wide distribution, but of gigantic size, 

 showing either that they were at home or else degenerate, as some 

 little philosophers regard the gigantesque. Tall tree ferns of 

 graceful form and long, green, sprouting stems of the brake were 

 intermingled, reminding me of the long green snakes I had seen 

 twining in their cage in the museum in Buitenzorg. Another fern 

 began to appear on the banks and preceded us high up as the crater 

 walls, 1 graceful in leaf and long in stem, but growing less in size 

 as it climbed the mountain, although the small, high-growing 

 mountaineers seemed to have more fertile fronds than their grander 

 forest brethren below. 



At last the noise of escaping steam was heard and the smell 

 of sulphur was quite perceptible, and the clear little rills that had 

 rattled over the stones by the roadside much of the w T ay in the forest 

 gave place to unsightly, dark-colored streams oozing from the 

 banks, or spreading over rocks, and hotter than they should be at 

 that time of day or at the elevation we had reached. Soon one of 

 the boys exclaimed "Hot!" and there was really a stream too hot 

 for a comfortable footbath. As the woods dwindled the shrubs 

 reminded me more and more of the flora of similar elevations on 

 the Hawaiian group. To the Gleichenia was now added the club- 

 moss (the wawae iole of the Hawaiians, Lycopodium certitium) , and 



1 1 was fortunately able to bring good specimens to the herbarium. 



[302] 



