Report of a Journey Around the World. 165 



road engine as well) was simply a large log with iron pins for axis, 

 to which were connected for shafts two bambu poles quite uncon- 

 nected to each other and pulled by a stout coolie. We passed 

 some sheep which were scared, and when the boy driving them 

 tried to sooth them one pushed him through a hole in the fence 

 and into a ditch. 



At last we came to a sharp, steep turn which the car mounted 

 nobly to a plain where the great Buddhist temple was before 

 us (Fig. 124). But there was a preliminary, and as our car left 

 us we turned into the little hotel and paid the admission fee both 

 to this and the lesser temple we were to visit later. Near the 

 house were several Buddhas fallen from their former high estate, 

 and a row of Buddha heads that looked like a Chinese execution 

 and partly accounted for the many headless trunks we saw on the 

 temple. We mounted the stair undisturbed by the two stone demons 

 guarding the entrance, but followed by a guardian of less offensive 

 form to see that we did no damage to the place, and then the won- 

 der began. The platform has been carefully, if not beautifully, 

 relaid in cement, and it was the only thing that seemed solid. The 

 comparatively small blocks of dark lava, of which the structure is 

 built without mortar, but often connected by stone keys and tenons, 

 have been greatly displaced by the general sinking of the upper 

 stories, due to the method of construction on the outer surface of 

 an earth hill which the rains gradually wash down, in spite of the 

 precautions taken by the wonderful architect, by gutters, drains 

 and spouts. While in use doubtless the temple was kept in repair, 

 and these precautions were sufficient ; probably while the building 

 was covered with ash from the volcano until hidden from the sight 

 of man, the packing was enough, but an earthquake might dis- 

 locate the roof of the uncovered temple, and once the wall opened 

 the insidious enemy entered and the complete destruction of this 

 grand monument cannot be prevented many years, whatever means 

 the Government may take to prevent it, short of complete rebuild- 

 ing with cement. The vertical walls are now leaning in a very 

 threatening way, and a slight earthquake will topple them down, 

 perhaps bringing the portions above in the general ruin. All the 

 impressive stairways, of which a line runs up each face of the 

 temple, are already in ruins, excepl one (Fig. i- 1 ''), which is by 

 no means intact. How far the Government restorations have gone 



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