222 Report of a Journey Around the World. 



of cars since I first tried them twenty-five years ago, they are still 

 slow, running long trains with long stops, even "express" trains 

 stop at nearly every station. The next day we were early at the 

 museum where Dr. Cheeseman received us most cordially and 

 showed many acquisitions, among them the "Spencer" carvings 

 which I had tried to buy on a previous visit but the owner would 

 not sell ; and a superb native house which was procured at a bar- 

 gain and now forms a wing of the canoe hall ; the roof and raupo 

 paneling were, of course, new. The whole arrangement has greatly 

 improved since my last visit, and it is probable that the remainder 

 of the art collection will eventually be removed to the art gallery, 

 giving much needed room. 



We also visited Partridge's gallery of Maori portraits, nearly 

 doubled in number since I last saw them . Partridge was telephoned 

 and he came to see me and told much of the work of the artist 

 Lindauer, who is now an old man and has retired to his home at 

 Pilsen in Bohemia. This collection is certainly the best representa- 

 tion of the Maori race in existence, and consists not only of portrait 

 heads but characteristic groups of great artistic and ethnographic 

 merit. I know of no Polynesian race that has been so finely illus- 

 trated. I wish it could be exhibited in this museum and elsewhere 

 before it is settled in its final resting place, which should be New 

 Zealand if any thoroughly fire-proof museum could be found. 



Wednesday, Nov. 20. Fine day, and we walked through 

 Albert Park ; the color arrangement of the beds of flowers was bad. 

 Visited the library and found the art gallery closed for alterations, 

 but the librarian, Mr. Shellington, kindly sent to the Mayor and 

 got his permission to let us in. The pictures were all down and 

 the "Landing of the Maoris" which I much wished to see again 

 was in the pile face to wall. In the table cases, however, were many 

 relics of the Sir George Grey collection (whose books and manu- 

 scripts form the choicest, if not the largest, part of the public 

 library). Among these a two-pronged shark hook; many fine 

 meres and patus ; superb boxes and many ear-rings. A Hawaiian 

 poi pounder of large size, a large adze, kapa beater, niho of a 

 palaoa were noted. Two Maori jumping-jacks; genealogical sticks 

 and other interesting and rare things. In the afternoon drove to 

 Mt. Eden, Cornwall Park, Remuera and the Domain. Apart from 



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