TRAVELLED ROUTES TO LABRADOR 39 
dred calls on the round trip, the traveller can learn much 
without leaving her. But if he wishes really to see Lab- 
rador, he must be willing to give more time to it than the 
mere hurried round trip of the mail steamers can afford 
him. These steamers remain but a very short time at each 
place, and do not visit the long and almost unknown 
fiords which constitute one of the chief attractions of the 
coast. To go where perhaps the foot of man has never 
trod, to wind in and out at leisure among the countless 
turns and twists of these inlets, never knowing what one 
is likely to meet with next, adds a great charm to a holiday 
and a freshness which long since has been lost by most 
summer resorts. The wildest, least known, and by far the 
grandest fiords are all north of Nain; in order to attain a 
true appreciation of scenic Labrador, one ought to begin 
where at present the average visitor is obliged to turn back 
with the mail steamer. 
Thus to enjoy the best that Labrador has to offer, and 
to study the remarkable features which among all the 
coasts near to civilization are peculiar to ‘the Labrador,” 
one must be able to linger at will in the long fiords, push 
up these still unnamed and almost unknown arms of the 
sea, and discover for oneself new coves and inlets as he 
coasts along them. In a few, but only a very few, of the 
northern bays and fiords one may occasionally find a 
solitary salmon fisherman. Generally the visitor may en- 
joy with Robinson Crusoe the joy of being monarch of all 
he surveys. Not a policeman, nor a warning “not to tres- 
pass” will be encountered. No advertising fiend has yet 
succeeded in defacing these refreshing wilds. 
In Labrador there are no hotels in the ordinary meaning 
