A Winter Journey amongst the Lutzu 183 
to give away, and as he accepted it I thought it highly 
unlikely that he would interest himself further in my plans. 
He had protested, as he was in duty bound to do no doubt, 
and there the matter ended. However, for the time being 
I kept my own counsel. 
The fine winter weather had at last set in, and the days 
were superb, but while at mid-day in the sunshine it was 
quite hot, no sooner had the sun sunk behind the lonely 
monastery, than it grew very cold, and the brilliant nights 
were bitter. 
As we rode down the valley, it was interesting to observe 
how the leafless trees above A-tun-tsi were gradually re- 
placed by gorgeous autumn tints and scarlet berries, giving 
place to green trees, and finally in the Mekong valley itself 
to autumn crops of buckwheat. 
The two days’ journey to Yang-tsa was without incident, 
and it then became necessary to decide on a plan of action. 
I therefore told Kin that we would cross the river at 
Yang-tsa, sending the rest of the caravan on to Tsu-kou, 
there to await our arrival, while he was to speak quietly 
to one of the soldiers who understood Tibetan, and bribe 
him to accompany us as interpreter. At first the soldier 
hesitated, saying that Chao would beat him when he got 
back, which was very likely true as it was well known that 
I had been forbidden to go. But when I pointed out that 
Chao, being a friend of mine, would only give him perhaps 
fifty blows, a merely nominal punishment to ‘save his face,’ 
he consented on condition that I made it worth his while, 
and my offer was at once accepted. 
To one of the other soldiers I gave a small present of 
silver, telling him to take the rest of the caravan, which, 
with my pony Beauty, was in charge of Sung, to Tsu-kou ; 
and next morning we split into two parties. 
Had the soldiers, acting under orders, refused to coun- 
tenance this arrangement, | should have collected all the 
slings in Yang-tsa and quietly slung the baggage over the 
river in the dead of night. Kin and I would then have 
crossed and started at daylight, leaving the rest of the 
caravan on the other side. 
After watching the departure of the Tsu-kou party, 
I told our soldier to see the kit across the river, and find 
