190 A Winter Journey amongst the Lutzu 
accurate. Thus we see that the Yang-tze flows several 
hundreds of feet above the level of the Mekong, and the 
Mekong in turn several hundreds of feet above the level 
of the Salween. I had already suspected these differences 
of level, partly from the differences of vegetation in the 
valleys (though this was largely accounted for by rainfall) 
and partly from the readings of my barometer taken at 
various places in the three valleys, though not down in the 
river bed itself. 
It is an interesting point, for it suggests the possibility 
of a great westward tilt of the country, as though the great 
mass of the Himalaya had caused a sagging of the earth’s 
crust where these three rivers break through from the 
Tibetan plateau. Accurate barometer readings, however, 
at corresponding points in the beds of the Yang-tze, Mekong, 
Salween, and both branches of the Irrawaddy are much to 
be desired. 
In Cho-la I met a third Chinaman who had crossed the 
mountains to the Irrawaddy as interpreter to Hsia-fu; for 
having lived most of his life amongst the Lutzu he spoke 
their language and to some extent conformed to their mode 
of living. Hsia-fu had made him Tussu, or chief of the 
district for his services on that occasion, but the reward 
was a sinecure. He told me of takin on the Irrawaddy 
(wild oxen he called them), and described the Chutzu who 
inhabit those forests as a shy inoffensive people who tattoo 
their faces. 
There were splendid apples here, now ripe, also juicy 
oranges and pomegranates. Tobacco, walnuts, gourds 
used for drinking-vessels, and magnificent pumpkins are 
also grown, besides the crops already mentioned. A 
common tree is a species of Cornus (probably Cornus 
capitata) with a curious aggregate fruit exactly like a 
strawberry, which is eaten by the natives ; this also grows 
in considerable numbers all the way down the Mekong 
valley from Tsu-kou southwards. 
I tried to photograph some of the nicest-looking women 
in Cho-la, but met with scant success, for they ran into their 
huts, where I found them lolling round the fire smoking 
and tippling their warm soupy brew of fermented maize ; 
whereupon they would laugh slyly at me, but refuse to come 
