TABLE CUSTOMS. ' 155 



of people, very seldom use any table for tlieir 

 meals, an inconvenience which is very little 

 feltj as the dishes are generally served out 

 from the kitchen in courses of a smgle plate 

 to each guest, who usually takes it upon his 

 knees. Knives and forks are equally dis- 

 pensed with, the viands being mostly hashed 

 or boiled so very soft as to be eaten with a 

 spoon. This is frequently suppUcd by the 

 tortilla, a piece of which is ingeniously dou- 

 bled between the fingers, so as to assist in the 

 disposal of anything, be it ever so rare or 

 liquid. Thus it may well be said, as in the 

 story of the Oriental monarch, that these ran- 

 cheros employ a new spoon for every mouth- 

 ful : for each fold of the tortilla is devoured 

 with the substance it conveys to the mouth. 

 The very singular custom of abstainm 

 from all sorts of beverage during meals, has 

 frequently afforded me a great deal of amuse- 

 ment. Although a large cup of water is set 

 before each guest, it is not customary to drmk 

 it off tiU the repast is finished. Should any 

 one take it up in his hand while in the act of 

 eating, the host is apt to cry out, " Hold, hold . 

 there is yet more to come." I have never 

 been able to ascertain definitely the meanmg 

 of this peculiarity; but from the strictness 

 with which it is observed, it is natural to sup- 

 pose, that the use of any kind of dnnk whilst 

 eating, is held extremely unwholesome.* 



• What also strikes the stranger as a singularity in that counliy. 

 is that the females rarely ever eat with the males -at least in tGe 

 ^^sence of strangers— but usually take their food m the kitchen 

 •y themselves. 



C5 



