, LA ORACION OR VESFERS. 257 



ill the performance of the external rites of 

 rehgion, than the New Mexicans. A man 

 would about as soon think of venturing in 

 twenty flithoms of water without being able 

 to swim, as of undertaking a journey with- 

 out hearing mass first. These rehgious exer- 

 cises, however, partake but seldom of the 

 character of true devotion ; for people may 

 be seen chattering or tittering while in the act 

 of crossing themselves, or muttering some 

 formal prayer. Indeed, it is the common re- 

 mark of strangers, that they are wont to wear 

 much graver countenances while dancing at 

 a fandango than during their devotional exer- 

 cises at the foot of the altar. In nothing, 

 however, is their observance of the outAvard 

 forms of rehgion more remarkable than in 

 their deportment every day towards the close 

 of twilight, when the large bell of the Parro- 

 quia peals for la oration, or vespers. All con- 

 versation is instantly suspended — all labor 

 ceases — ^people of all classes, whether on foot 

 or on horseback, make a sudden halt — even 

 the laden porter, groaning under the weight 

 of an insupportable burden, stops in the midst 

 of his career and stands still. An almost 

 breathless silence reigns throughout tlie town, 

 disturbed only by the occasional sibilations of 

 the devout multitude : all of which, accom- 

 panied by the slow heavy peals of a large so- 

 norous bell, alford a scene truly solemn and 

 appropriate. At the expiration of about two 

 minutes the chaim is suddenly broken by tlie 

 clatter of hvelier-toned bells ; when, presto, all 



22* 



