112 REPORT 18G5. 



GEOGRAPHY AND ETHNOLOGY. 



Victoria Falls of the River Zambesi. By T. Baines. 



The author visited the Victoria Falls of the Zarnbesi in 1862, during- a journey 

 which he undertook, in company of Mr. James Chapman, with the object of tra- 

 versing the continent of Africa, from Walvisch Bay on the west coast to Quilimane 

 on the east, by way of Lake N'gami and the Zambesi river. They spent three weeks 

 surveying the Falls, Mr. Chapinan photographing, and Mr. Baines sketching the 

 scenery ; the result being a more accurate delineation than had previously been given 

 of this remarkable geographical feature of Central Africa, which was discovered, as 

 is well known, by Dr. Livingstone in 1855. The cataract is formed by the river, at 

 a point where it is nearly 2000 yards wide, plunging into a deep narrow chasm 

 (lying across its bed), about 400 feet deep and from 70 to 130 yards wide ; the 

 waters escaping from this by a narrow gate near the eastern end and pursuing their 

 course to the lower country along a narrow gorge, prolonged for a great distance in 

 extremely abrupt windings, traces of which are to be seen 800 miles below the cata- 

 ract. A cloud of spray, resembling smoke, issues from the depths of the chasm, and 

 rises, as was ascertained by the author, to a height of 1200 feet ; from this and the 

 roar of the waters is derived the native Makalolo name of the Falls, " Mosi-oa- 

 tunya " — " the smoke sounding." A luxuriant tropical forest, teeming with animal 

 life, surrounds the cataract, and also the river above it ; but the country further down, 

 lacking the fertilizing influence of the river, sunk deep below the surface, is of the 

 usual African aridity. The author described in some detail the various excursions 

 he undertook through the difficult country round about the Falls, in search of good 

 points for sketching them ; but owing to their great extent, it was impossible to 

 obtain a good general view from any point, though many partial ones of great beauty 

 may be found. The whole Fall is broken into a number of minor cataracts, one of 

 which, at the western end, is more sloping than the rest, on account of the rocky 

 edge of the Fall being worn away. At this part there is a greater volume of falling 

 water than elsewhere, and it rushes down the steep incline in a fleecy, seething 

 torrent, scattering spray that flashes like myriads of diamonds in the sunlight, the 

 rainbow formed by the unclouded tropic sun upon the rising vapour being one of 

 the most brilliant and beautiful objects it is possible to conceive. 



Letter from Mr. Samuel Baker to Sir R. I. Mttrchison. 



" Khartum, April 30. 



" My dear Sm, — I arrived here yesterday, and trust to be in England shortly after 

 you receive this. I thank you for your very welcome letter, which reached me in 

 Unyoro, delivered by an Arab trader on the 20th of September, 1864. Your appre- 

 ciation of my researches among the various Nile tributaries in 1861 gave me great 

 pleasure, and was a timely stimulus at a moment when I was ill and broken down 

 with fever. 



" I had the good fortune to meet Captains Speke and Grant at Gondokoro, in 

 February 1863. The object of my expedition being attained by meeting them, and 

 by their discovery of the Victoria Nyanza Nile-head, I should have returned with 

 them had not Captain Speke reported that he had heard of a lake called by the 

 natives Luta Nzige\ This, he imagined, might be a second source of the Nile, and 

 I at once determined to attempt its exploration. 



" My boats departed from Gondokoro for Khartum with Captains Speke and 

 Grant, but when I was about to start the whole of my men mutinied and refused 

 to proceed, retaining possession of my arms and ammunition. The ivory traders of 

 the place combined to prevent an}' European from penetrating the interior, fearing 

 travellers' reports upon the slave trade. The chance of being able to proceed ap- 

 peared hopeless. Being resolved not to be driven back, and rinding it impossible 

 to lead my men south, I at length induced eighteen of my mutineers to accompany 

 me to the camp of one of the traders, E.S.E. of Gondokoro about 80 miles, whence 

 I hoped to be able to alter my course. Having loaded my camels and asses, I started 

 at night, without either interpreter or guide, neither of whom were procurable, all 

 the natives being under the influence of the traders. On passing the station of an 

 Arab trader, six days from Gondokoro, my men, who had previously conspired to 



