214) KKroKT — 1872. 



through which the Wady Kerak flows, with a perfect oasis on its slopes and 

 with a Bedouin encampment. To our right there was a perpendicular moun- 

 tain rising above us, on the summit of which are the ruins of an ancient 

 tower, which was evidently designed to guard the pass to Kerak. At our 

 back was the peninsula of El Lissan, and in front of us wore the steep moun- 

 tains of Moab, through the defiles and over the giddy heights of which Ave 

 had to wind our way to Kerak. By the lurid light of our bivouac fires this 

 remarkable spot looked sublimely lonely. The Mugelly with great cunning 

 selected this place as best serving his purpose. 



We retired to rest, little dreaming what we should have to wake to. In 

 order to show how secure we were under his protection, and to luU us to 

 sleep pleasantly, the Mugelly got up a sham fight with the Saphia robbers, 

 charging them with mean behaviour towards us, and threatening to stab 

 them, for which purpose he actually drew out his dagger. As it was an aifair 

 between themselves, quarrelling about the money we gave them to buy them- 

 selves a lamb for supper, we did not interfere, but went to sleep as soon as 

 the deafening noise of these villains subsided, and rose early to resume our 

 journey to Kerak, which was only four hours and a half distant. 



It was here that the true character of the young Mugelly showed itself, 

 and that we learned to our bitter cost why he urged us to dismiss our Jehalin 

 escort, and why he adroitly selected this lonely spot for our encampment. 

 No sooner did he perceive that we had begun to strike our tents than he 

 demanded £70, and declared that he would not allow us to proceed unless 

 the money was forthcoming. He at last consented to take 25 napoleons ; and 

 at about 8 a.m. we started on our journey. What might happen to us at 

 Kerak when lodged in the clutches of this vagabond was more than any of us 

 dared to think of. We tried to comfort ourselves with the fact that one of 

 the gang was a Christian, and that he might be of help to us when the worst 

 came to the worst. We proceeded on our journey not in a very good humour 

 for exploring. We continued ascending a ridge of wild mountains, called 

 Akabat Charaza, crossed the Wady Charaza, and came to the ruins called 

 El Kabo {i. e. the cave), about 1000 feet above the Dead Sea (circa 9 a.m.). 

 Here we were told a Christian Sheikh lived in olden days, who exacted tri- 

 bute from all travellers to or from Kerak. The hill on the right of El Kabo 

 is called Botheneh, whilst the hill more to the north still is called Elmanzar 

 (i. e. watch-tower). Ascending still higher we climbed a ferruginous hill, 

 called Jebel el Hadid, passed Wady Umeshanan at 9..30, Wady Ruseis, with 

 the spring called Ayin Iluseis, at 11.15, reached the plateau of Omsidre at 

 12, and descended to the bottom of Wady Kerak at 12.40. Wc now began 

 climbing an almost perpendicular zigzag, leading to the summit on which 

 the ruins of this famous fortification, with its enclosed huts, are planted. 



On our way to Kerak, the Mugelly was very anxious that we should camp 

 outside this vulture's nest in the deep valley below, which is exceedingly 

 fertUe, and where there are ruins of ancient buildings and a sugar-mill. To 

 this we decidedly objected, as we should have been cut off from all communi- 

 cation with the inhabitants, and in that case the vagabond could make any 

 demand upon us without the possibility of our appealing to any one. He had 

 therefore to lead us up to Kerak. The road consists of a very steep terrace 

 on a charming ravine, strewn all over with stones of different shapes and 

 various sizes. These stones being imbedded in the precipitous ascent, form, 

 in fact, crooked steps. So steep is the ascent, that we had to dismount and 

 lead our horses. We reached the top at 1.30 p.m. 



It was fortunate that wc went to examine the place immediately after our 



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