

GEOGRAPHICAL EXPLORATION OF MOAB 215 



arrival ; for soon after we returned to our tents the son of tlie Mugelly, who 

 brought us from the Saphia, came aud demanded no less than 600 napoleois, 

 as the remainder of the money for bringing us here and for allowing us to 

 encamp at Kerak. We of course refused to pay any thing, aud told him that, 

 although he had extorted 25 napoleons from us, he had no right to act in this 

 hostile manner. Seeing that we were determined not to be bullied out of 

 any more money, he forbade us to leave our tents, and we thus became pri- 

 soners. In this plight we were visited by the Greek catechist, whom Mr. 

 Klein knew. He procured us a messenger, whom we secretly despatched to 

 Jerusalem with a letter to Mr. Moore, the British Consul, informing him that 

 we were prisoners and that 600 napoleons were demanded of us. 



As it was Saturday we made up our minds to a quiet rest in our tents for 

 two days, which we did not grudge, as we were tired and wearied out with 

 annoyance from the Kerak vagabonds. In the midst of our gloom, however, 

 a ray of hght appeared. We heard that Zadam, son of the Sheikh of the 

 Bene Sachar, with whom Mr. Moore the consul had made a contract at Jeru- 

 salem to take us from Kerak to the north of the Arnon, had arrived here, and 

 was the guest of the Mugelly. 



The old Sheikh, the father of the Mugelly who had plundered us on our 

 way from the Saphia, we had not seen as yet. We were told that he camped 

 three hours from Kerak, that he was a better man than his rascally offspring, 

 and that though " his belly, too, was as large as our tent, his mind was as 

 wide as the ocean." We therefore sent a messenger to our future protector 

 and guide Zadam, requesting him to come to our tents. At about 12 a.m. 

 the old Sheikh of the Mugelly, with Zadam of the Bene Sachar, and a hosj 

 of Moal)ite grandees came to pay us a visit. To this old Mugelly Sheikh 

 in conclave we recited our troubles. He at once set us at liberty, and 

 told us we were perfectly free to go where we liked, that his country 

 was our country, and no man should dare to touch us or make any demand 

 of us. 



Our joy was now beyond bounds. We were not only set at liberty without 

 money and without price, but we were told we might go wherever and do 

 whatever we Uked. To our further satisfaction we saw the old Sheikh taking 

 his seat on the ground among his magnates, fifty yards from our tents, with 

 his son opposite him in the ring, and heard him rating the scoundrel as hard 

 and as loud as possible, telling him that he had brought shame and confusion 

 of face upon his old father in the sight of these Consuls (which is the name 

 they give to distinguished foreigners), aud dei landing that the 25 napoleons 

 taken from us should at once be restored. We even heard that the money 

 which had been divided between the chief robber and about a dozen minor 

 scoundrels was actually being collected. Being thus set at liberty, we devoted 

 the rest -of Saturday and the following day to the exploration of this stupen- 

 dous ruin and the town. The following is a summary of the results : — 



The very entrance into this ext aordinary ruin of Kerak, or the " Bock of 

 the Desert " (Petra Descrti), as it was called in the middle ages, is remark- 

 able. It consists of a long and winding passage of about 100 feet through a 

 high ridge of the natural rock, Avhich forms a cavern gate. It is in such a 

 zigzag that we could not see those of our party who were fifteen yards before 

 lis. It is surmounted by an illegible Arabic inscription. Looking at it from 

 the summit of the neighbouring mountains which overtop it, Kerak exhibits 

 the form of a rude triangle ; whilst from the bottom of the ravine it appears 

 like a vulture's nest, constructed on a peak more than 4000 fcQt above tho 

 Dead Sea. 



