GEOGKAriUCAL EXPLORATION OF M0A13. 219 



into an insulted enemy. He declared in the midst of his people in our face, 

 that he cared neither for the Governor of Nabulus nor for the Pashas of all 

 the East, nor for the Consuls at Jerusalem, and that he was determined to 

 send us back to the Saphia to the robbers, from whom he now said his son 

 had delivered us. The young Mugelly had therefore no more made his face 

 black by his conduct to us at the Drah as the old rascal declared before, but 

 rendered us unspeakable service by saving our property and our lives. 



This was now the story of the old Mugelly Sheikh, and to this we had to 

 address ourselves. Our feelings may easily be imagined when we found our 

 professed friend suddenly changed into as great a robber as his son. The 

 Bene Sachar chief Avho came to Kerak to fetch us told us that it all meant 

 money, and that we must make up our minds to submit to another extortion. 

 The question was therefore discussed what would satisfy the old vagabond. 

 We decided to give him twenty napoleons and his brother five napoleons, and 

 with this he was satisfied. 



With feelings of great relief we left the old ruined castle, congratulating 

 ourselves that we had at last actually escaped from this fiery furnace. But 

 we had not gone more than 300 yards when a very violent rain commenced, 

 accompanied by a terrific hailstorm. The horses refused to proceed, and we 

 had to return to take shelter behind the walls of the Greek church. In a 

 few minntas we were wet to the skin, and it seemed that even the elements 

 conspired against us to keep us at Kerak. 



After waiting for an hour and a half behind the waUs and among the 

 tombs in this drenching flood, we made a fresh start at 12.30. The anxiety 

 of the muleteers to get away was so great that they would not allow the 

 storm to stop them, and had gone on without us. Our joy in leaving, which 

 was now brightened by a little sunshine, made us forget that we had tre- 

 mendous ravines to descend and precipitous heights to climb of thousands of 

 feet. It was only when we were actually facing these giddy heights and 

 depths that we began to think how their natural difliculties were now en- 

 hanced by the heavy rain. However, we got through without any further 

 accident than some of the mules falling down and upsetting the luggage, 

 which created a Babel of swearing and such an incessant shouting and cla- 

 mouring amongst the Arabs as only those can realize who have ever had the 

 misfortune to hear it. 



On our way to Rabba, after ascending the next height, we passed along a 

 beautiful highland, which might be made exceedingly fertile by a little cul- 

 tivation ; but these Bedouins prefer plunder to work, and^ only sow that 

 which they absolutely require for themselves and cattle. The whole journey 

 from Kerak to liabba took us three hours and a half. We passed through 

 Chorbath Rakin, a small ruin about an hour from Kerak, Bether, and Min- 

 char. Whatever these places may have been in olden days, at present only 

 large scattered stones and the bases of walls remain to show that at all events 

 some of the buildings were strong and capable of defence. At four o'clock 

 in the afternoon we reached Rabba. 



This is supposed to be Ar, the ancient capital of Moab (Dent. ii. 9, 29). 

 We camped on the site of an ancient pool, about 50 by 60 yards, and about 

 21 feet deep. There were three large caverns in the walls, which were a 

 godsend to us ; for it was pouring rain on our arrival here, and these caves 

 afforded shelter to us and our horses Avhilst the tents were being pitched. 



Between our camp and the ruins of Rabba there was about a quarter of a 

 mile, and there were two more pools from Avhich the ancient city derived its 

 chief water-supply. As the. rain continued we could not do more than inspect 



