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INSTITUTE OF SOCIAL ANTHROPOLOGY — ^PUBLICATION NO. 1 1 



who have taken over the overalls (with and with- district, while enaguas are found principally in the 

 out bib) so characteristic now of the unionized Calvario district and among the poorer women 

 workmen in urban areas of Mexico. Footwear elsewhere in Quiroga town. 



is divided into three classes : bare feet or no cus- A typical woman in Quiroga wears as her every- 



tomary use of footwear (mainly women and day garb a one-piece cotton print dress, cotton 

 children); sandals (hvuraches) worn only by men stockings, shoes, and a rebozo. The next most 

 and boys; and shoes (zapatos) of all types, worn common combination is the foregoing minus the 

 by women, men, and some children. The 1940 shoes and stockings. In third place is the colonial 

 census records only the diagnostic elements of combination of blouse (vnth. short sleeves more 

 dress given above, which are considered to be the often than sleeveless) or calico waist, full cahco 

 usual everyday wear of the persons censused. skirts (less commonly full woolen skirts), rebozo. 



Table 34.- Dress and footwear in the 1940 census f ^d bare feet. Only a few women wear silk stock- 



DREss IN THE 1940 CENSUS ings. Or the black mantilla instead of a rebozo. 



On a few occasions some women and, more com- 

 monly, girls will wear the national galaday attire 

 known as the china poblana. 



The most common male attire consists of a 

 straw hat, scrape, white or colored blouse or 

 shirt, dark-colored woolen or cotton trousers, 

 leather belt, and either huaraches or shoes. In 

 second place is the campesino combination of 

 straw hat, scrape, white blouse or shirt, colored 

 Jaja or belt, white calzones, and huaraches. In 

 third place is the urban or catrin combination of 

 felt hat, suit or unmatched coat and trousers, 

 leather belt, shirt — usually white, a tie on occa- 

 sion, socks, shoes, and anything from a formal 

 overcoat to a scrape for protection against the 

 cold. Khaki or buff-colored shirts, trousers, and 

 jackets are popular among those with political or 

 military background or aspirations. Blue over- 

 alls in combination with shoes or huaraches, felt 

 hat or straw hat, white or colored shirt, and 

 Since the 1940 census was taken the main change anything from a blanket or serape to a sweater or 

 apparently has been an increase in the use of leather jacket, are becoming rather common in 

 overalls by men and boys in town. We suspect Quiroga as elsewhere in Mexico. The most com- 

 the recorded large number of wearers of shoes. mon straw hat is of the low-crowned type made 

 Probably all of the 2,462 owned shoes, but prob- widely in Michoacdn from the P^tzcuaro Basin to 

 ably a considerable number of such owners Sahuayo. The most popular serape is a locally 

 (especially among the women) did not wear them made black serape decorated with red geometric 

 commonly around home and only donned them to figures. A few men own charro costumes, but 

 go "down town," or to town, or on festival oc- only one man commonly wears his outfit, which 

 casions. The most common associations are: is the relatively subdued and authentic costume 

 only men and boys wear huaraches, practically all of the rural gentleman of a generation or two ago 

 of the wearers of calzones are shod with huaraches, and not the gaudy and silver bedecked costume of 

 and the some 200 other wearers of huaraches are the city dudes which can be seen today in Cha- 

 derived principally from the pantalones group; pultepec Park on Sundays, 

 only women and children commonly go bare- 

 footed, and most of the women who wear enaguas 

 go barefooted; and the use of calzones tends to be 

 concentrated in the ranchos and the Calvario 



HOUSE FURNITURE 



We made little attempt to study house furnish- 

 ings in the Quiroga area. However, from general 



