64 



Aquatic Utte 



corner and then fold the edges, thus 

 forming a tray one inch deep. Then a 

 round hole in the centre, one-fourth inch 

 less in diameter than the glass, is cut 

 with a one-fourth inch chisel and a 

 hammer. Lay the tray on a solid piece 

 of wood and the work can be done so 

 neatly that filing will not be necessary. 

 The position of the circle should be mark- 

 ed with a pair of dividers. 



Next cut a strip of metal one-inch 

 wide and as long as the circumference of 

 the hole. Draw a line lengthwise in the 



centre and, with tinners' shears, make 

 cuts half an inch apart from one edge to 

 this line. Bend the sections thus form- 

 ed at right angles, fit the collar into the 

 hole from below, and solder into place. 

 Make another collar one-half inch wide 

 and sufficiently large to slip over the first 

 collar and still leave sufficient space for 

 the glass between both. Solder this sec- 

 ond collar to the bottom. The glass 

 should fit loosely between the collars, 

 and will be cemented in place later. 



For the balance of the frame cut strips 

 one inch wide ; 4 pieces 10 inches long for 

 the corner uprights, 2 pieces 10 inches 

 long and 2 pieces 15 inches long for the 

 top frame. Bend the strips lengthwise 

 to form angles with each face one-half 

 inch. One by one solder the corner up- 

 rights to the corners of the tray or bot- 

 tom, and then the strips forming the top. 



Make certain, as you proceed, that each 

 is square, otherwise there will be trouble 

 in fitting the glass. Paint the inside of 

 the frame, not the bottom, and, after it 

 has dried, cement the glass in place. Or- 

 dinary window glass will do for a tank 

 of this size, but it should average one- 

 eighth inch thick. Hold the glass in 

 position while the cement is setting by 

 means of strips of wood wedged from 

 side to side and from end to end. Now 

 lay a little cement in each corner, from 

 top to bottom, and let the tank stand for 

 a day to dry. 



Fill the groove formed by the two 

 collars with cement, then press the glass 

 firmly in place, trimming away the sur- 

 plus cement. 



In an ordinary tank made after the 

 plan described, I also cement a sheet of 

 glass over the bottom to prevent the 

 water coming in contact with the metal. 

 In the present case this is not possible, 

 so I melt marine glue (a sort of pitch) 

 and pour it over the bottom while hot. 

 In this proceeding the bottom should be 

 kept warm, as the glue sets quickly 



Any small kerosene lamp can be used, 

 but it should be as short and compact 

 as possible, as the aquarium must be rais- 

 ed to permit it being placed underneath. 

 Glass-bodied lamps are to be preferred 

 as one can see at a glance the amount of 

 oil still unconsumed at any time. I clean 

 the wicks and remove the charred por- 

 tion every other day. 



In rare cases the male of Xiphoplwnis 

 helleri will not develop the sword-like 

 extension of the tail until nearly a year 

 old. This usually means a fine big speci- 

 men. When the sword reaches its maxi- 

 mum length body-growth has ceased ; 

 hence precocious tendencies in this direc- 

 tion indicate the "runts." 



