Aquatic Lite 
103 
boards, and three and one-half by one- 
half for one and on-half inch boards. A 
metal washer of the proper size should 
be used to prevent the head of the screw 
drawing into the wood. To prevent 
splitting, a hole should be bored for each 
screw, using a bit one size smaller. Don’t 
set a screw to its limit at once. Insert all 
in the holes and tighten each one in turn 
a little at a time, which will draw the tank 
together with an even, continuous pres- 
sure. 
Lag screws have great pulling and 
holding power, and for tanks up to 100 
gallons are sufficient in themselves. For 
larger sizes the sides should be drawn 
together by one-quarter or three-eighths 
iron rods, threaded at both ends to take 
nuts and washers. These are shown in 
the accompanying sketch. 
Inasmuch as a trickle of water runs 
constantly into the tank, some sort of 
overflow must be provided. A good out- 
let can be made from three-quarter inch 
iron pipe and fittings as shown by figure 
A. This is inserted through the end 
board and held by nuts and washers. By 
raising or lowering the pipe any water 
level can be maintained in the tank. To 
prevent the fish from entering the pipe, 
the end at the bottom is covered by the 
arrangement shown at D, which merely 
consists of two triangular pieces of wood 
and a scrap of brass wire-cloth, held in 
place by a couple of thin brads. Figure 
C is a “constant level syphon,” which is 
automatic in action; figure B requires no 
explanation. 
In large rearing tanks it is well to pro- 
vide partitions of wood or ground glass, 
which can be removed at will. These 
permit sorting while the fish are small, 
and do not require much space. 
Wooden tanks should be well seasoned 
before being placed in use, giving several 
changes of water over a period of a week 
or more, the longer and more often the 
better. Concrete pools require a much 
longer time for the neutralization of 
chemicals fatal to aquatic organisms. 
When the weather has settled, and all 
danger of the water dropping below 60 
degrees has passed, it is safe to place fish 
six weeks old outdoors, giving them a 
small drip of water. The water should 
not fall directly into the tank, but upon 
a piece of glass below the faucet, which 
breaks its force and tempers it. While 
in the fry stage and feeding on infusoria, 
still water is conceded to be best, but 
when the fish are large enough to take 
Daphne, the slight trickle is decidedly 
beneficial in promoting growth. 
An average goldfish six weeks old will 
have a body half an inch long, fins have 
started to develop, and its shape and 
color will be evident. At this period the 
breeder should discard all those with 
spiked dorsals, single tails and other mal- 
formations, setting aside the best of the 
remainder for particular attention. At the 
age of three months the youngsters will 
be lusty, healthy individuals, with well- 
rounded bodies, good fins and telescope 
eyes, and with the colors pronounced. 
Young goldfish require a large amount 
of food, and they must have it to grow. 
Live foods, first infusoria and then 
Daphne and Cyclops, should be in the 
water at all times. They cannot con- 
sume a large amount at any one time, but, 
practically speaking, they are always eat- 
ing. Daphne consume oxygen, and un- 
less it is abundant they quickly die and 
pollute the water, so it is advisable to re- 
plenish the Daphne several times daily, 
rather than put in a day’s supply at one 
time. In addition to live foods, don’t 
overlook the benefits of oatmeal, men- 
tioned in the previous article. When 
large enough the fish may also have 
chopped earthworms, raw chopped fish, 
