SZ 
Aquatic Lite 
than narrow. Proceed as before and 
bend at each of the two remaining 
notches; you will then have a perfect 
oblong top frame. 
Now cut four pieces of the angle iron, 
each fifteen inches long, with square 
ends, for the corner uprights (see Figure 
2a). Then buy four carriage bolts, 3 
by 214 inches, threaded well up to the 
head. 
Take the frame and have it welded to- 
oe ZA | 
fA 
Figure 2. Slate or Marble Base, 
Frame ready to Drop Into Place. 
with 
gether, the corner uprights butt-welded 
to the top frame, and the bolts welded 
to the lower ends of the uprights on the 
inside, as in Figure 2b. Caution the 
welder to be sure to have the top frame 
square and the corner uprights square 
with the frame. In welding the bolts he 
should avoid making a hump or spread- 
ing more iron over the frame than is ab- 
solutely necessary. A little surplus iron 
can easily be filed off. If the frame is 
not welded true it will be almost impos- 
sible to straighten it; hence the need of 
care in the process. Surplus iron at the 
corners can be ground off on an emery 
wheel or filed smooth. The frame is now 
complete and in one piece. This welding 
costs about two dollars. 
Next paint the frame with red lead and 
boiled linsed oil, adding a little gold size 
for drier. Red lead is the only thing I 
have found that will not peel off in time. 
The finishing coat of paint of the desired 
color can be applied later. 
Now comes the base. This can be made 
of marble, slate or cement. ‘To use mar- 
ble or slate proceed as follows: 
Take the frame to a reliable man and 
have him lay out a base as shown in 
Figure 2, with corner as in Figure 3. 
The base should be 1% to 1% inches 
thick; the groove to receive the glass %4 
inch wide and ™% inch deep, leaving the 
base extend 11% inches beyond on all 
sides. At the corners of the groove cut 
a -inch offset to receive the angle iron 
uprights, and have holes drilled for the 
bolts. To allow the nuts to be screwed 
flush, the holes should be countersunk on 
the bottom or under side of the base. It 
is necessary to make the frame first, so 
that in case of slight variations the base 
may be made accordingly. This insures 
a true plane for the glass. The holes at 
the corners should be drilled to bring the 
outside of the corner uprights tight 
against the marble thus bringing the 
inner faces of the corner irons flush with 
the outside edge of the groove. 
To assemble, place the bolts on the 
uprights in the holes at the corners, being 
careful to get each in its proper place. 
If the frame is not true, and the base has 
been made to meet the variation, the glass 
will not have the right plane if the ends 
of the frame are reversed. Lift each 
corner and press cement into the offset 
and bolt hole. 
firmly until the nuts catch the threads on 
the bolts, then set the nuts tight and cut 
the bolts off flush with the bottem of the 
base. Painting the groove with gold size 
before setting the frame will help the 
cement to stick. 
Press the frame down 
When the frame is rigidly in place, the 
glass may be set. None other than plate 
glass should be used. One can get salv- 
age glass very cheap; it is just as good 
as new for the purpose if care is taken 
to select pieces free from scratches. Use 
