Aquatic Lite 
ISS) 
long. Where the rods intersect wire 
them securely to the wire cloth to hold 
all securely together. Not every inter- 
section need be fastened, but just enough 
to keep the rods in place when the cement 
is poured. The wire cloth is probably 
extra reinforcement, not absolutely neces- 
sary, but it makes a good foundation for 
the rods. 
When the reinforcing is complete, lay 
it in the mould and see that it is flat. Then 
set the angle iron frame of the aquarium 
into the mould, putting large nails or 
bolts through holes in each corner up- 
right to hold or tie the frame into the 
cement, as indicated at A in Figure 4. 
If you used %-inch quarter-round 
moulding, the corner upright irons ot 
the frame will each be one inch from side 
or end of form. Now stay each corner 
of the aquarium frame with wire run- 
ning from the top to the outside of the 
mould—drive nail or screw-eye into out- 
side of mould (Fig. 4B), fasten wire to 
it and pull very tight. It must be tight 
to prevent any movement of the frame 
when the cement is poured. Now pre- 
pare four strips of wood, ™% inch wide 
and % inch thick, of the proper length 
to fit between the corner uprights of the 
frame. These form the groove in the 
cement base, and are shown in place in 
Figure 5. Notice that the end pieces 
fit within the long or side strips; these 
strips are inserted after the cement is 
poured 
Use a standard cement that you know 
is fresh and perfectly good. Mix clean, 
sharp sand 2 part, cement I part, and 
make a rather thin mixture. Two water 
pails of sand and one of cement will be 
ample. Mix thoroughly and pour into 
the mould, tamping it well. Work it 
thoroughly into the corners and edges by 
puddling around the edge with a small 
stick of wood. Spend a little extra time 
on this, as it will pay in the end to have 
clean, sharp edges and corners. The 
mould should be filled level with the top 
and the surplus scraped off with a stick 
long enough to reach from one side of 
the mould to the other. When the cement 
has been smoothed, insert the 4 by %4- 
inch strips previously prepared. Press 
them down level with the surface of the 
cement and close against and within the 
uprights of the aquarium frame as shown 
in Figure 5. These strips are later re- 
moved, forming a groove for the glass, 
Y inch wide and % inch deep. Use care 
not to insert them so as to make a groove 
Y% inch deep. The strips should be ab- 
solutely straight and not warped or 
bowed. ‘Trowel and smooth the surface 
of the cement. 
See that no surplus 
cement is left on top of the groove strips, 
and that they are pressed tightly against 
Do not disturb the 
job for three days, except to clean off 
any cement that may have run over the 
top of the groove strips, which is im- 
the corner uprights. 
Figure 5. Top View of Cement Base, 
showing the Strips (S) Imbedded in the 
Cement, within the Angle Iron Corner Up- 
rights, to Form Grooves for the Glass. 
portant. Any surplus extending over 
these strips will, when they are removed, 
crack back and make ragged edges. 
When it is certain that the cement has 
thoroughly set, take out the groove strips, 
exercising every precaution. If soft wood 
has been used they can readly be re- 
moved by first cutting a deep V-shaped 
