162 TfiE ViCTOtllAN NAtUEALiSt. [Vol. XXlll. 



a whisker on each side of the face. We now found that 

 Geve's son had never been further than Isurava, and did not 

 know the way to Kokoda, but luckily an Isurava native with 

 a huge cassowary plume head-dress and forbidding blackened 

 face consented to act as guide. The first few miles from Isurava 

 were terribly rough for rapid walking, the track being on the 

 steep slope of a mountain. One was continually tripping or 

 slipping over loose stones, slippery rocks, logs, creepers, and 

 roots hidden on the track, and where the scrub was low one's hat 

 or clothes were frequendy caught in the tendrils of the wild rasp- 

 berry. On such a track one would be an easy prey to a native 

 hiding with a spear, as the eyes had to be always fixed on the 

 track to avoid falling. The streams were spanned with slippery 

 logs, often some height above the water, which I had to cross 

 with great care, though the natives got over quickly enough with 

 their bare feet. Our Isurava guide was always wishing to go 

 back, but we managed to keep him till we got directly over the 

 flat country at the outlet of the gap, when he insisted on return- 

 ing, telling us that the station was just below. This ugly creature 

 was delighted on receiving a looking-glass as a present. We went 

 down the mountain and came on a creek, which for the greater 

 part of the way was the only track to the station. As we did not 

 even know the station was on the creek, we followed a track 

 which took us to a few deserted huts and a pumpkin patch about 

 8 miles from where our guide had left us. We had been travel- 

 ling at a great rate in our desire to reach the station before night- 

 fall, but without result, the flat being covered with lofty trees, 

 which excluded all view of the country, and we were obliged to 

 camp for the night. The boys were knocked up with sore feet 

 from rocks and leech-bites, and disheartened at not reaching the 

 station, all finding themselves in a country unknown to them. 

 After some trouble we found the track the next morning, and 

 reached the station at 1 1 a.m. 



Kokoda station is situated about i,ooo feet above sea level, on 

 a slight elevation above the surrounding flat country, and has a 

 very large garden, beautifully kept, and containing chiefly taro. We 

 were very kindly received and assisted by the officers of the station. 

 I wished I had taken my trade and stores through with me, so 

 that I could have travelled about this country. There were more 

 birds and butterflies than on the other side, and the Marquis 

 Raggi's Bird of Paradise and the Goura Pigeon are slightly 

 different. Before reaching the station, Anthony pointed out to 

 me what he thought was the dancmg ground of the Magnificent 

 Bird of Paradise. It consisted of nothing more than a rounded 

 space in the scrub, about 3 yards in diameter, cleared of moss 

 and dead leaves. The country on the way to Kokoda was strewn 

 with fruits of various shapes and sizes and of the most brilliant 



