OF EASTERN TURKESTAN, 97 
under the dense shade of the fruit trees, and a party of 
musicians playing and singing away as if their lives depended 
on their performance. The musical instruments are the kanun 
—a_ sort of harpsichord, a violincello called Citar and fifes and 
tambourinees. We sat ina raised kind of room, reached by 
steps and having a covered balcony from which the surround- 
ing prospect could be surveyed as we reposed on the carpets. 
At dusk we had a very graud dinner and dastarkhwan com- 
bined, set before us ; the Yuzbashi and another official joining 
us in the repast. 
To-day I got a White Stork (Ciconia alba), which the people 
eall Laglag; this is evidently the same word as Laklak—the 
Arabic name for the Stork, and is probably given in imitation 
of the clattering noise which the bird often makes with its 
mandibles. 
2nd.— Delightfully cool sleeping in the verandah of my tent 
last night. The trees and flowers here grow most luxuriantly, 
but no order seems to have been thought of in planting; a 
few walks here and there, and the rest is wildest confusion. 
The “ Bulbul” (Nisoria undata), Phyllopneuste rama and Ery- 
throspiza obsoleta seem to revel in this luxurious retreat, their 
songs being often heard proceeding from the midst of the dense 
foliage. Writing of orchards reminds me of the fruits of 
Yarkand. These are, mulberries (now quite out of season), 
apples, pears, apricots, peaches (not very good), plums, walnuts, 
grapes (of several varieties), figs, “Trebizond dates,” water 
melons, and sweet melons of many varieties. 
After breakfast the musicians came near us again, but they 
seem to have been going on without pause or intermission, in 
some part or other of the garden, ever since yesterday afternoon. 
In the evening the Yuzbashi sat with us a long time, and the 
conversation turned on Railways. He seemed greatly interested 
in hearing how quickly he would be able to go from Yarkand to 
Kashghar if there were a railway between the two cities; and he 
finally asked what the probable cost of such a journey would 
be, in that case. On being told that the fare would have to be 
about thirty tangas (Rs. 6), he said: “ That is capital, but now 
I can go as quickly as ever I wish to, at a cost of not more than 
four tangas !” p 
3rd.—To-day we returned from our bagh to the fort again. 
In the evening the Dad Khwah sent over a couple of fur robes, 
and Tash Khoja who brought them said they would do for the 
Nim Sahib; his version of “Mem Sahib.’ Now as zim in 
Persian means half, Tash Khoja must think that we call our 
ladies half sahibs — and in fact this does bring to mind our 
well-known phrase “ better half.’ To jump from ladies titles 
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