PRUNING AND TRAINING. p Y sg 
or even fuur feet; next commence at the top, leave three 
eyes, the upper one for the future leader, and the twe 
others for the top pair of branches; cut out the next two, 
leave the two beneath, and continue on so to within 
vighteen inches of the soil, below whieh remove all to the 
bottom, as there is no use in having any fruit lower down. 
During the next summer these eyes will, if well attended 
to, form side spurs, which in their turn will have to be eut 
back to two, three, or even four buds, as they may be 
plump, or well developed. Now, when these buds begin 
to grow, we ought to have a shoot from each of them, and 
as only one bunch ought to be allowed to remain on each 
base, the other shoots will appear so far superfluous. Re- 
tain the one at the base, or nearest to the main eane, and 
likewise that one above it which shows the best bunch; 
rub off the others, and pinch out the fruit from the lower, 
and also all, excepting the best formed bunch on the upper 
one. As they progress in growth, take out the top of that 
which has fruit on, three or four leaves above the buneh, 
and let the other extend until it has unfolded seven o1 
eight leaves; then stop it. Bring the bearing brancher 
down, nearly horizontal, to the upright cane, and tie them 
to the side-wires ; train the others at an oblique angle, and 
tie them likewise. They will now appear as seen in Fig 
16. ais the base shoot, and 4 the fruiting one. As both 
eontinue to push forth fresh growth from Fig. 16, 
time to time through the summer, nip out Z 
to one leaf above where last stopped- 
After the fruit is eut, and the wood be- 
comes ripe, say two or three weeks before 
the leaves fall, go over and eut (4) clean 
away to the base of (a), which leaves the 
spurs for fruiting the next year as near to 
the main cane as if the close cut method 
