CAMPING IN CHAMBA. 485 



bungalow and a messman ; and the horse-dak agent, or else the 

 "chowdri," will have a dooly and six bearers (Kahars), or a pony, or 

 rickshaw and ekkas ready to take yourself and kit on to Dalhousie. 

 Order these of him by letter beforehand. Most people dine at Dunera, 

 get into a dooly (palanquin), and wake to find themselves at Dalhousie 

 (23 miles from Dunera) about daybreak ; or sleep at Dunera and ride 

 up, or rickshaw up, next morning. There is a half-way bungalow at 

 Nynee Khud. We stayed a night at Pathankot and another at Dunera, 

 thence marched up to Mamul bungalow (also called Chil, from the verna- 

 cular name of Pinus longifolia abundant there) near Bukloh, 4,500 feet. 

 "We spent two or three days there, and then marched up to Dalhousie. But 

 if you leave Pathankot on the afternoon of Thursday (suppose), you may 

 be in Dalhousie on Friday morning. There is no travellers' bungalow at 

 Dalhousie, but there are several hotels. The best is said to be the 

 Strawberry Bank Hotel, and it certainly has the advantage of being all con- 

 tained under one roof. We went to Mrs. Donlea's Springfield Hotel, 

 which consists of several houses at intervals on the mountain side. It was 

 not very pleasant to have to make our way in a torrent of rain to one of 

 the upper bungalows after dinner, but otherwise the hotel is a good one. 

 The remaining hotels are the Bull's Head and the Mall-house. In case 

 you mean to make any stay at Dalhousie, it will be well to take a port- 

 manteau full of dress clothes, &c, which (with your light " railway clothes ") 

 may be left there. I will now recapitulate these memoranda, for the 

 comfort and speed of the journey will depend much on the lundobust. 

 Write to the Private Secretary, Chamba (or to the Chamba State Vakil", 

 Dalhousie), for license ; write to the Tonga Agent, Pathankot ; the Chowdri, 

 Dunera ; the Hotel, for a room ; fix your hours of departure accurately, as 

 tongas, &c, cannot be ready without definite instructions, and in the busy 

 season they are all booked days beforehand. If your party is not large 

 enough to engage a reserved compartment, at least book a lower berth in 

 the train. A reserved compartment is a great convenience for such a long 

 journey. Return tickets (intermediate) can be taken for servants. 



At Dalhousie you will need to spend a day or two to rest, fit out, and 

 start your servants and kit off to that lovely " Sleepy Hollow, 11 Kajiar, or to 

 Chamba. Send for the Chowdri at once to order coolies, or mules, for 

 notice must be given. You will do well to bring a servant or two from 

 down country. A cook (indispensable), and a "boy '' (optional), or a 

 smart " orderly " who will not object to making himself generally useful; 

 Dalhouaie servants are not to be depended on. If you take men from 

 Bombay they will need some warm kit, and it is better to give them a. 

 Whiteaway Laidlaw fit-out, than to be fleeced by the Dalhousie dirzies for 

 expensive and cutcha-made suits of very bad puttoo. Give them each a. 

 cardigan jacket at Rs. 2-8, a syce's serge overcoat at Rs. 8-8, a warm blanket. 



