492 JOURNAL, BOMBAY NATURAL HISTORY SOCIETY, Vol XI. 



Mamdu, whom I picked up in Dalhousie, and who proved an exception to the 

 rule that all Dalhousie servants are scoundrels. There is a good dhobi in 

 Chamba. He washes for the royal family, and will take you as a client. Your 

 dakwallah can take in clothes to him when fetching letters weekly or oftener. 

 Thus you will have 13 coolies, a shikari and chota shikari, a cook and one 

 other servant. Three of the coolies permanent, -and 10 temporary, for 

 marching. Plenty of small change and silver should be taken. Bank-notes 

 can be cashed in Chamba., Lahore-Calcutta notes are preferred to Bombay ones ; 

 and after April 15 there is a branch of the Punjab Banking Co. at Dalhousie. 

 Have your letters and papers redirected to Chamba. Nota bene. — Letters for 

 British India, if posted in Chamba, must bear Chamba State stamps ; but those 

 for Europe must bear British Indian stamps. Both kinds may be bought in 

 Chamba Post Office. The nearest Telegraph office is Dalhousie ; telegrams 

 addressed Chamba, via Dalhousie, are posted on to Chamba and they can be 

 posted to Dalhousie from Chamba. 



The cost of the railway journey from Bombay may be ascertained from the 

 Time-books, but it may be useful to note here some charges that will be in- 

 curred after leaving Pathankot. From Pathankot to Dunera there are two 

 sorts of tonga. The " Invalid s tonga " costs Bs. 18, and the ordinary tonga 

 Bs. 14, for the single journey. The larger sort takes three passengers and 

 nominally one maund of luggage (more will go on it). Your bedding, rifles, 

 ammunition, basin and Dalhousie portmanteau will have first claim to accom- 

 pany yourself. Kkkas, or one-horse traps, cost Bs. 3-3-0 to Dunera, and 

 Bs. 4 thence to Dalhousie. A baggage camel, Pathankot to Dalhousie, costs 

 Bs. 3-4-0 ; the time of arrival is uncertain. A dooly or a dandy, six Kahars 

 Dunera to Dalhousie, costs Rs. 9-12, Kahars included. Rickshaw, costs Bs. 8, 

 A riding pony costs Bs. 4. Coolies get 3 to 5 annas a stage, and Kahars 5 annas 

 stage. They are changed at each chowky, about seven miles interval. Mules 

 right through from Pathankot to Chamba cost about Bs. 4-8-0 each ,• from 

 Chamba to Pathankot they cost Bs. 3-8-0 each. The rate for mules generally 

 is 8 to 10 annas a day ; load two maund*. They cannot be taken beyond 

 Chamba, but from Pathankot to Chamba they do very well, and make the 

 journey in about five or six days. There is a shorter direct route from Path- 

 ankot to Chamba, but the Dalhousie road is preferable for several reasons. 

 Each ek 1 a carries one passenger and one and-a-half maund of luggage, or 

 three maunds and no passenger. Ekkas do well enough for men coming down 

 from Dalhousie, but ladies will prefer dandies or doolies, which take longer, 

 but are mare aristocratic modes of transport. Probably the cheapest way to 

 be carr ed up would be in ekkas from the railway to Dalhousie. 



Leaving Dunera before dawn, you might ekka up in one day, or you 

 could sleep at Nynee Khud, half-way, below Bukloh. Expenses at travellers' 

 bungalows are about Bs. 5 a day, a rupee more at hotels. The Dalhousie draught 

 beer is excellent, and Dalhousie-made soda-water costs, 14 annas a. dozen iu 



