VAMPING IN CHAMBA. 4§3 



Chamba at Merwanji's branch shop. These prosaic hints on things in general 

 have necessarily to be much abridged in the pages of a journal sacred to high- 

 class Natural History, and the intending traveller will do well to consult the 

 usual books on Himalayan sport and outfit, for instance, K.C.A.J.'s sports- 

 man's Vade mecum (Horace Cox) ; Ward's " Sportsman's G-uide to Kashmir " 

 (Calcutta Central Press); Tyacke's " Manual ^ (Thacker, Spink); Neve's 

 " Tourists ' G-uide to Kashmir,' 1 &c. (Civil and Military Press, Lahore), Kin- 

 loch's, Baldwin's, Macintyre's, Newall's Stone's and other books on Himalayan 

 game will be found useful ; and Hooker's " Himalayan Journals'" (Minerva 

 Library), Knight's " Three Empires ," Lawrence's " Valley of Kashmir, 11 are 

 books that will deepen one's interest in the mighty hills. The main problem 

 is to keep down the quantity of kit and yet to travel in comfort. 



Having safely reached Dalhousie, sampled the draught beer, and 

 started your servants and coolies or mules down to Kajiar or Chamba, you 

 set off at last for Chamba. The first three miles past the post office, up 

 Putrain hill, by the waterworks road to Kalatop, 8,000 feet, will try your 

 walking powers a little perhaps, but thence the road gradually descends for 

 some 9 miles, through lovely forest scenery, with views of the distant snowS 

 to Kajiar, 6,400 feet, where there is a good bungalow and a messman. There 

 is a " week " at Kajiar annually about the end of May, when the Dalhousie 

 people camp out there, and races, soldiers' sports, &c., are held. It is a most 

 picturesque spot. The town of Chamba is 7 miles distant and hot, being 

 only 3,030 feet above the sea-level. When crossing the hew suspension 

 bridge over the Ravi, you will have some tolls to pay, and on all skins, heads, 

 young animals, coolies, ponies, &s. I. think my tolls came to Es. 10 or so. 

 Arrived at Chamba, make for the travellers' 1 bungalow, to the left of the 

 " Chougan" or Polo ground, and on the cliffs above the roaring Eavi. Send 

 word to the Postmaster, Mr. Mubarik Khan, that you will be glad to see 

 him. He is a most useful person and very obliging. He has charge of all 

 the cooly and other transport arrangements, and will also see to the stamp- 

 ing and posting of your letters, and the collection of supplies by your d&k- 

 wallah, if you leave a small sum in his hands to cover such expenses. He 

 will set about collecting coolies, but if you are provident you will have Written 

 to him beforehand fixing the day on which you will require them, and stating 

 the probable number you will need. The provision of cooly transport is a 

 troublesome matter at times, and coolies have to be supplied in rotation from 

 the various " ilakas " of the State. If you have a little spare time at Chamba 

 you will find it very pleasant to make the acquaintance of His Highness the 

 Eajah Saheb, and also some of the chief officials. The Eajah was a very 

 keen sportsman, and one of the best horsemen in India, but I was told that 

 latterly ill-health had somewhat hindered him from devoting himself to 

 manly recreations as eagerly as in former times ; still, he is interested in 

 sport of every sort, and is most courteous and agreeable to meet. He took 



