wood of the vine, and summer prunin. 
44 Pruning. 
BUSHBERG CATALOGUE. 
Pruning. 
both sides of the vine, as our object must be to 
give the fruit all the air and light we can 
without depriving it of the necessary foliage, 
which is of greatest importance for the forma- 
promote the the sugar formation, but rather im- 
pede the 
By nerens ee the grapes have bloomed, the 
laterals will have pushed from the axils of the 
a on the bearing shoo Now go over 
hese again, and pinch each lateral back to one 
mae as shown in Fig. 70. In a short time the 
laterals on the fruit-bearing branches which 
have been pinched, will throw out suckers 
These are again stopped, leaving one 
leaf of the young growth. Leave the laterals 
on the canes intended for next years’ fruiting 
to grow unchecked, tying them neatly to 
the wires with bass or pawpaw bark, or with 
rye straw. 
If you prefer training your vines on the hori- 
zontal arm system (Fig. 68) the mode of sum- 
Pp: in the main be the same. 
Pinch off the end of each upright shoot as soon 
as it has made two leaves beyond the last 
bunch of wait the shoots after being stopped 
gain, as we wish to keep 
them within the limits of the trellis, and the 
laterals should be stopped beyond its first leaf, 
Thus we try to keep the vine equally 
in fruit, foliage and wood. It will be perceived 
that fall pruning, or shortening-in the ripened 
g, short- 
ening-in and thinning out of the young growth, 
have and the same object in view, namely, 
to keep the vine in proper bounds, and concen- 
ts energies for a srk tae object, 
would be allI would ever consider necessary, 
om 
vines in fall or early spring, and then leave 
them entirely without summer pruning.’’ The 
importance of this matter is so great that we 
subjoin— . 
HUSMANN’S METHOD OF SUMMER PRUNING. 
{Extract from the ‘“‘ Grape Culturist,” Nov., 1870.] 
Without proper and judicious summer prun- 
ing, it is impossible to prune judiciously in the 
fall. If you have allowed six to eight canes to 
grow in summer where you need but two or 
three, none of them will be fit to bear a full 
crop, nor be properly developed. We prune 
longer in fall than the majority of our vintners, 
which gives a double advantage; should the 
frost of winter have injured or killed any of 
the first buds, we still have enough left; and 
should this not be the case, we still have our 
choice to rub off all imperfect shoots, to re- 
duce the number of bunches at the first pinch- 
ing, and thus retain only strong canes for the 
next years’ fruiting, and have only large, well 
developed bunches. 
But to secure these advantages we have cer- 
tain rules, which we follow stri 
to the importance of this subject, and that the 
old practice of cutting and slashing the young 
growth in July and August is generally dis- 
countenanced. It has murdered more prom- 
ising vineyards than any other practice. But 
people are apt to run into extremes, and many 
are now advocating the “let-alone”’ doctrine. 
We think both are wrong, and that the true 
course to steer is in the middle. 
1. Perform the operation EARLY. Do it as 
soon as the shoots are six inches long. At this 
you can oversee your vine much easier. 
levely young shoot is softand pliable. You do 
not rob the vine of a quantity of foliage it can 
not spare (as the leaves are the lungs of the 
plant and the elevators of the sap). You can 
do three times the work that you can perform . 
: a week later, when the shoots have become 
hardened, and intertwined by their tendrils. 
Remember that the knife should have nothing 
to do with summer pruning. Your thumband 
finger should perform all the work, and they 
ean do it easily if it is done early. 
2. Perform it thoroughly and systematically. 
Select ‘the shoots you intend for bearin 
