October, 1889.] 389 



THREE DAYS AT FERROL. 

 BY J. J. WALKER, B.N., F.E.S. 



H. M. S. " Grappler," homeward bound from Gibraltar, encoun- 

 tered on April 14th, when off Cape Finisterre, a stiff gale from the 

 north-east ; and as it was somewhat doubtful whether the supply of 

 coal on board was sufficient to carry the ship across the Bay of Biscay, 

 it was decided, much to the satisfaction of all on board, and especially 

 to my own, to run into Ferrol, then about 80 miles distant, and re-fill 

 our bunkers. The weather was very thick, and the sea most 

 unpleasantly rough, and it was with no small relief that we sighted 

 the heights above Cape Priorino about 4 p.m., and, soon afterwards, 

 ran into smooth water at the entrance of the noble harbour of Ferrol. 



It needs but a single glance at the land to recognise its granitic 

 character, the scenery, at first sight, reminding one of some parts of the 

 coast of Cornwall, though much bolder and more elevated, the slopes on 

 either side of the harbour rising steeply to the height of 700 or 800 feet. 

 These slopes are for the most part clothed with furze, at the time one 

 mass of golden bloom, with scraggy thickets of oak, and plantations 

 of stone-pines here and there, interspersed with strips of cultivated 

 land, the vivid green of the young corn contrasting beautifully with 

 the more sombre tints of the rough vegetation. The town of Ferrol 

 stands on a low and somewhat square-shaped peninsula, situated about 

 five miles up the harbour, between Jubia Bay on the south-east, 

 and the smaller cove of Serantes on the north-west. The Royal 

 Dockyard, with its extensive basins, &c, lies on the south-east side or 

 this peninsula, and a high wall, built of granite and loopholed for 

 musketry, entirely surrounds the town, with only two gates on the 

 landward side. 



It was too late to land on the evening of the 14th, and the next 

 day was wretchedly cold and wet, but I had to go on shore on business 

 in the forenoon, and again at 2 p.m. ; when this was despatched, I 

 thought that, as our stay here was very uncertain in its duration 

 (depending upon the length of time that the weather remained 

 unfavourable), I would try and see a little of the country, so I sallied 

 out of the Jubia Gate under mackintosh and umbrella. The first thing 

 which strikes one on landing is the fine physique and frank open 

 bearing of the inhabitants, who, as a race, seem to me far superior to 

 the Andalusian Spaniards whom I had just left. As for the town, 

 there is not very much to note, though it is fairly clean and prosperous 

 looking (although not entirely free from evil smells near the water's 

 edge), and there are some fine old houses in the main street, which is 



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