;HuNT — On the Action of Waves on Sea-beaches, 8fc. 243 



is deeply to be deplored that the methods of investigation employed 

 with so much knowledge, and applied with so much tact and dex- 

 terity, should not have led him to a better result" {Trans. Brit. 

 Assoc, 1844, p. 337). 



Thus, on the threshold of his inquiry into the action of waves 

 on sea-beaches, the student is confronted with the fact that two 

 authorities of great repute on the theory of waves are at variance 

 as to the character of that particular form of wave, viz. the wave 

 of the first order, to the exceptional powers of which the most 

 striking wave phenomena of the coast are commonly attributed. 



The following extracts from the published opinions of authors 

 of eminence in their respective branches of science will suffice 

 to indicate the divergence of opinion that exists with regard to the 

 following fundamental questions as to the action of waves on 

 beaches, viz. : — 



The motion of shingle under water, and its cause, variously 

 attributed to wind-waves, ground swells, tidal waves, tidal cur- 

 rents, and other sub-marine currents ? 



The horizontal motion of shingle on beaches ; whether the 

 large material outstrip the small, or vice versa ? 



The vertical motion of shingle on beaches; whether small or 

 large attain the greatest altitude ? 



The degrading and accumulating action of waves ; whether 

 large waves or small exert the one action or the other ? 



As frequent reference will be made to the above-mentioned 

 Papers of Messrs. Coode, Prestwich, and Eedman, and to the dis- 

 cussions that followed them, it will be convenient to quote them 

 under the letters C, P., and R., respectively. 



[Opinions!, &g. 



2A2 



