Hunt — On the Action of Waves on 8ea-beaches, 8fc. 245 



had not sufficient velocity to exercise any 

 mechanical power whatever." — Q.J.G.S. 

 vol. vi. p. 73. 



' ' The two actions, first, that of wind- 

 waves when they break in shallow water ; 

 and secondly, that of the tidal stream, 

 are alone engaged in fashioning and ar- 

 ranging the materials of the sea-bed. . . . 

 In every sea the power of abrasion is con- 

 fined to a marginal zone, and that of dis- 

 persion, though with a wider range, 

 extends only to the minuter particles of 

 matter." — Mid. p. 75. 



Mr. John Murray. 



" On the east coast, the shipping 

 which frequented the coal ports, cast out 

 at sea, particularly in fine weather, great 

 quantities of ballast in water 10 to 

 20 fathoms deep. The greater part of 

 this ballast was composed of sand and 

 pebbles dredged from the Thames, with 

 chalk and other matter foreign to the East 

 Coast. After storms, the shore between 

 the Tyne and Hartlepool was strewed 

 with these pebbles, which could only 

 have been brought there by the action 

 of the waves at the depths stated." — 

 C. 34. 



Mr. Joshua Wilson. 



"... waves possessed sufficient power 

 to move shingle at considerable depths : 

 inasmuch as though, at Sunderland, no 

 vessels were permitted to throw ballast 

 overboard at a less depth than 5 

 fathoms, yet great quantities of flint 

 pebbles were found on the beach, which 

 could only have been derived from that 

 source, as they were not met with ' in 

 situ ' in any cliflFs within the range 

 of the seas bearing on Sunderland." — 

 K. 55. 



violence . . . The Astronomer Royal's^ 

 view, that the materials which formed 

 the bank were piled up by the sea, after 

 having been torn up by the violence of 

 the surf from the bottom, coincided very 

 nearly with his own." — P. 36 and 38. 



Mr. J. N. Douglass. 



"... the travel of the shingle was, 

 he thought, chiefly due to the effects of 

 the ocean-wave or ground-swell .... He 

 quite agreed with the opinion expressed 

 by Mr. J. T. Harrison, that the beach 

 (Chesil) had been largely supplied with 

 material from the bottom of the bay ; 

 indeed, he considered it quite possible 

 that a portion of the supply had been 

 transported from positions westward of 

 the Start.— P. 45 and 46. 



Professor Prestwich 



thought that the shingle was driven on 

 to the Chesil Bank "by the storms to 

 which this coast is exposed acting proba- 

 bly conjointly with the great tidal wave. 

 This wave, passing from the ocean into 

 the shallower waters of the channel, be- 

 comes a wave of translation, which under 

 certain conditions, such as a rapid de- 

 crease of depth, or the narrowing of its 

 channel, possesses a greater or less propel- 

 ling and eroding power." — P. 18. 



Mr. KiNAHAN. 



" Lyme Bay ... is open, and the 

 ChesU Beach is exposed to the full force, 

 not only of the tidal current, but also of 

 the most prevailing and effective winds. 

 The current also is progressively increas- 

 ing in velocity as it goes eastward, and 

 therefore carries large fragments with it 

 to be driven on shore . . . " — Q. J. G. S., 

 1877, p. 40. 



1 Sir G. Airy. 



