TRANSACTIONS OP SECTION F. B68 



The great increase in women's employment in this trade dnd the considerable 

 decrease of men's employment which accompanied it should not be interpreted 

 as showing that women have displaced men in the sense that women are now 

 doing processes in the tailoring trade previously done by men. Men's employ- 

 ment has been naturally restricted owing to a diminution of orders in that part 

 of the trade in which men's labour predominated, i.e., the retail bespoke trade. 

 Women's employment has enormously increased owing to an unprecedented 

 demand on that part of the trade in which women normally predominate, i.e., 

 the wholesale bespoke and ready-made branch. The nature of the problem may 

 perhaps be made clearer by a reference to the actual processes involved in 

 making up military uniforms. 



The cloth is obtained in rolls and has first to be cut into pattern. This is 

 done by men by means of a band of revolving steel with a knife-edge, known as 

 a band-knife machine. The pieces of cloth are laid one upon another to a depth 

 of 24 to 30 and are cut together. They are then rolled up and stacked away. 

 The work is heavy, entails much stretching and strain, and requires considerable 

 skill. A false movement of the cloth may ' spoil ' dozens of suits and mean con- 

 siderable financial loss. Various rumours and a few instances of women 

 employed as band-knife cutters have occurred, but so far women have displaced 

 men only in the operation of ' laying out ' and ' rolling up ' of the cloth. A 

 strong exceptional woman might successfully undertake band-knife cutting, but 

 in almost every case the work is unsuitable for women. Women, however, do 

 cutting on lighter cloths and in smaller quantities in the ladies' tailoring part 

 of the trade, though even here it is exceptional. The Trade Unions concerned 

 strongly oppose the introduction of women into the cutting rooms, even where 

 laying out and rolling up (normally done by boys) are the only processes done 

 by them. They have agreed, however, that women shall be engaged on these 

 processes, for the duration of the War only. Women themselves do not seem 

 desirous of undertaking the work. 



Fixing and Basting, i.e., placing the pieces in their places ready for the 

 machinist. This is skilled work, and though it is usually done by men there 

 seems no reason why it should not be undertaken by trained women. Basting 

 is often done by women. 



Machining, by power or treadle machines, employs more workers than any 

 other process. Save on very heavy work, e.g., overcoats, the process is done 

 by women. In small workshops more women machinists have been employed 

 since the War. 



Finishing, i.e., cleaning or taking out cotton tacks and cutting off cotton 

 e_nds_; button-holing (by machine), buttoning (by machine or hand), and 'fel- 

 ling in ' pockets, linings, etc., is entirely women's work, and is worse paid than 

 any other process. There is a felling machine on the market, and though it 

 is likely to have an enormous influence later on this branch of women's work 

 (which is partly done by home workers), it has apparently not yet been brought 

 sufficiently to the notice of the trade. The machine cost's about 101., but owing 

 to the present low rates paid to women finishers the incentive to install this 

 machine does not appear to be strong. 



Pressing consists of under-pressing of seams and pressing off the whole 

 garment. The seam pressing, which is lighter work than the pressing off, is 

 done by women. On cheap goods a machine press— the Hoffman— is used by a 

 few firms. This press was recently introduced from America and is worked' by 

 women. It has probably displaced some men, but is not used to any great 

 extent. Other mechanical presses are also used, but none to any app'reciable 

 degree. 



To_ meet the seasonal fluctuations of demand in the tailoring trade the 

 factories depend upon the smaller employers or sub-contractors, and these sub- 

 contractors depend upon other sub-contractors and home workers to assist them 

 in time of excessive activity. There is always a considerable number of small 

 employers and home workers on the fringe of the trade with whom work is placed 

 tc be made up during periods when trade is exceptionallv bri.sk. It is difficult 

 to say how large this reserve of labour is, but in London it is a very elastic 

 factor. It consists of people employed in various allied dress trades such as 

 shirt- and dress-making : of married women who wish to supplement the casual 

 earnings of their husbands, and casual home workers ; and of small ' slop ' tailors 



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