578 TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND AMERICA. [1869, 
be taken up the cataracts, or secure fitting weather, 
the excursion up to Phile was made by most of the 
party, on camels or donkeys (I greatly prefer the lat- 
ter), and the very picturesque scenery enjoyed. 
January 16 and 17 were grand days, going up the 
cataracts, our boats in charge of the Nubians. The 
first day, Saturday, sailed up to the rapids and were 
drawn up the first severe one,—a hard pull and 
barely room to get our larger boat through; 17th, a 
quiet Sunday, in still water between upper and lower 
rapids; under most picturesque surroundings of river, 
rock, and desert, here strangely mingled, and a hot 
cloudless sun; had service and much enjoyed Church’s 
sermon No. 3. Climbing one of the rugged masses of 
rock toward sunset, had a fine distant view of lovely 
Phile. Monday, 18th, the army of Nubians again took 
hold of our boats, and with noises indescribable and 
persevering efforts the boats were drawn, one by one, 
up the final and worst fall; we were in calm water 
before sunset, and at dusk were moored close to Philz, 
which we got charming views of, from the opposite 
shore next morning at sunrise; came up and made a 
brief visit to the ruins after breakfast, and sailed on 
with a beautiful breeze, when suddenly, about twenty 
miles on, the rudder of the Ibis gave way (injured 
probably in the cataracts), and for forty-eight hours 
we lay by near a Nubian hamlet (climbed the moun- 
tains on Arabian side; got wonderful views of desert, 
rock on this side, reddish-yellow sand on the other), 
while Antonio, the dragoman, with rowboat went back 
to Phil, and thence by land to Assouan, whence on 
camel brought up new rudder-post, workmen, ete., re- 
instated the rudder, and — January 21, afternoon — we 
were off again. 
