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BT. 58.] TO JOHN TORREY. 583 
the same way that he was “all right.” Eye-wash I 
dispensed in profuse abundance ; and among the men 
cured several cases of ophthalmia which looked seri- 
ous; and many a petty surgical operation did the 
‘“* Hakim-Pacha ” —as he came to be called — per- 
form. I cannot tell you how much attached we got 
to our crews and their officers, and before we parted 
I made sure that many tears should flow in my be- 
half, by acceding to requests for eye-lotions, which 
were most copiously used,—by those who needed it, 
for eure, by those who did not, for prevention. Two 
sorts of creatures with which I formerly had little 
sympathy, I have learned to appreciate and respect,— 
donkeys and people of color, Arabs and Nubians 
especially. All idea of anything disagreeable or 
inferior in color of skin disappeared, or rather the 
darker fellows seemed the finer. As I remember 
sundry dark Arabs, they seem to me among the best- 
looking and best-behaved men I ever knew. But this 
digression will never do... . At sunset reached Edfou. 
February 15. — Whole day at the temple, which 
is all but entire, and large as well as complete, and 
the acres of sculpture and hieroglyph in excellent 
preservation, all recently excavated under the care of 
Mariette and placed under a custodian. If I could 
be dropped down in Egypt for one morning only, to 
see only one thing, it should be this temple at Ed- 
fou, though only of Ptolemaic date. I cannot stop 
for a single detail about it. . . 
February 22.— Luxor : across river, tombs, Medinet 
el Bahree, Ramaseum, again, ete. I and some others 
dined in the evening on boat with our English friends 
(Legge, Eaton, sist Baird), and slobaual Washing- 
ton’s Birt 
