584. TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND AMERICA. [1869, 
February 23.— Boats dropped down to Karnak, 
had afternoon at the great temple, tea there at dusk, 
—a famous tea-party in the great hall of columns, all 
the dignitaries at Luxor and Karnak invited ; the full 
moonlight enjoyed for an hour or two, and then illu- 
mination with Bengal lights, making splendid effects 
among the 137 columns, and other parts; then rockets ; 
some of our parties back to boat, the rest to a feast 
given by a splendid old Arab, the chief of Karnak, in 
full Arab style, with music, dancing-women, and all. 
Imaun Joseph, who had been our guest at the temple 
tea, was his relative’s guest at this banquet. Lady 
Duff-Gordon’s account of him had made him known 
to us most favorably, and we got most thoroughly 
attached to the man, especially after having him to 
dine with us next day, his smile, voice, and manners 
of the sweetest, and his character is every way lovely. 
He is as dark-skinned as most American negroes, but 
with very handsome features. All these experiences 
cannot be written, but could be talked over at large. 
That evening view of Karnak is the one I want 
to keep, so I did not go again; Mrs. G. did once 
more. 
February 24.— Tombs of the kings; a grand but 
fatiguing day, most of the time in Belzoni’s, the finest 
and largest; most of us did two or three more. I 
came home over the mountains to get the fine view 
over the valley, etc. . 
March 4. — Siout : naceited the hill for the great 
view, from mouth of one of the great old tombs ; 
shopped in the pretty town; accepted the American 
consul’s great attentions for the morning only (rich 
Coptic Christian family), but tore ourselves away 
from entreaties to stay for dinner and fantasia in the 
