xT. 58.] TO JOHN TORREY. 585 
evening, in honor of the inauguration of the Amer- 
ican President, so secured the good wind and were off 
in the afternoon... . 
March 9.— Went over the site of Memphis; saw 
the colossal figure of Rameses lying pathetically on 
his face, pyramids of Sakkara, Serapeum, the wonder- 
ful Apis sarcophagi, and finally that newly excavated, 
beautiful tomb structure, of date very early in old em- 
pire (fourth or fifth dynasty), with paintings and low 
reliefs with truthfulness, spirit, taste, and fineness of 
execution, much surpassing the best days of the later 
empire, and all free of the grotesque mythology of 
later times. A fine treat to come at the last. 
March 10. — Hard rowing: against wind to reach 
Gizeh ; went in carriages, by road made for the Prince 
of Wales, to the Great Pyramid and its fellow. I went 
in, but no one ascended, — too much wind; Sphinx, 
neighboring old tombs, etc., ete. 
March 11.— Cairo: packed and left the boats so 
long our home, and good-by to the sailors. 
March 12-18. —Cairo: must not forget one day 
passed at Mariette’s museum, studying specially the 
fine things of old empire which he has discovered and 
rescued. Had fairly enough of mosques, Moslem 
tombs, modern palaces, ete. Sorry that slight illness 
cut off several things, notably a drive to the site of 
Heliopolis, marked only by a single obelisk. Steamer 
from Alexandria would not wait, so we must needs 
hurry off, our pleasant party break up, ete. 
March 19.— A morning drive at Alexandria, to 
see Pompey’s Pillar, the Obelisk, etc., and so on board 
the Peluze ; a beautiful evening, but blowy weather fol- 
lowed, —a seasick time ; and here we got, not Monday 
evening, but Tuesday morning, boat gone to Naples 
