586 TRAVEL IN EUROPE AND AMERICA. [1869, 
the day before. . . . Mrs. G. badly knocked up, and 
here is cold spring weather and fickle, weeping skies, 
so unlike the thoroughly reliable weather which we 
had got to regard as a law of nature; wherefore such 
freaks take us all by surprise. Oh, how we long 
anes, for the dry air and certain sky of old 
Egypt! 
Taormina, March 25, evening. 
We have done it, after all, or at least are in the 
way of doing it. . . . This morning, when the sea 
looked rough with the recent gales, although the very 
low barometer began to rise, I was not sorry when the 
Florio steamer was kept back, waiting an overdue 
corresponding vessel from Malta, and, though an- 
nounced to sail to-morrow, I determined to wait yet 
longer for smoother weather. Meanwhile it cleared off 
beautifully, though with considerable wind. At four 
p. M. this afternoon we were off by rail with small lug- 
gage needful, on the Catania railroad; an hour and a 
half along a coast more picturesque than the finest 
parts of the Corniche road, though not so grand, 
brought us to Giardini; whence an ascent of an hour 
up a zigzag road in a one-horse carriage, commanding 
charming sunset views all the way, old Etna full in 
view southwest, brought us to this queer perch. It 
reminds us of Turbia, but is far more striking. We 
are in a primitive, but very nice auberge; our window 
looking full upon the whole mass of Etna glistening in 
the clear moonlight. On the left hand we look directly 
down upon the sea and along the jagged coast; on the 
right Taormina Castle overhangs us almost, the old 
castle or forts covering its narrow summit, probably 
1,000 feet above us; it must command an extraordi- 
nary view. We shall see to-morrow. Rather behind 
