102 FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE. [1839, 
one in the morning, in an Episcopal chapel (the one 
to which this family belong) from Mr. Drummond, 
the text being the latter clause of Hebrews viii. 13 ; 
a most excellent, faithful, and godly sermon. In the 
afternoon I occupied a seat Dr. Greville was so kind 
as to secure for me in the Old Greyfriars (Scotch) 
Church, which is so crowded that without this precau- 
tion you can hardly expect to get into the church 
when Dr. Guthrie preaches. He is the most striking 
preacher I ever heard. I could not help comparing 
him with Whitfield. The text was the first clause of 
Eccles. ii. 11. I dare not attempt to give you any 
idea of the discourse. I wish you‘could have heard 
it. In this church-yard the remains of the early mar- 
tyrs of Scotland repose, not far from the Grass- 
market, where they were mostly offered up. I stood 
upon the very spot to-day where they suffered. We 
had a terrible wind all last night, which, with the rain, 
carried off nearly all the snow. The morning was so 
stormy that I could not fulfill my conditional engage- 
ment to breakfast with Mr. Nicoll and look at his 
curiosities. So I repaired to the university at ten; 
heard Sir Charles Bell,! the professor of surgery, — a 
decent lecturer, but not remarkable. At eleven I 
heard the celebrated Dr. Chalmers, the professor of 
divinity. The old man has a heavy, strongly-marked 
Scotch countenance, which, however, brightens very 
much when he is engaged in his discourse. His man- 
ner is rather inelegant and his dialect broad Scotch 
and peculiar. But the matter is so rich that he 
carries all before him. Every word is full of thought, 
1 Sir Charles Bell, 1774-1842; avery distinguished surgeon; author 
of Anatomy of Expression and pois ow celebrated works. He accepted 
the chair of surgery at Edinburg’ 
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