ET, 28.] JOURNAL. 203 
very much quicker than had ever been done before! 
to the great wonderment of the guides, as he said, 
and as I do not doubt. This was his chef d’ceuvre, 
and I assure you he felt quite proud of it. I laughed 
most heartily at the absurdity of the thing, until I 
reflected how rapidly I had been doing the sights my- 
self, and felt I might justly come in fora share of the 
ridicule. In this day’s journey I think I outdid the 
Yankee, for, arriving at Bologna about five o’clock, I 
immediately made arrangements for going on to Fer- 
rara the same night, and this accomplished, I had but 
two or three hours to spend at Bologna, a city fa- 
mous for its university and its sausages; the former 
decayed almost to nothing, the latter still in great de- 
mand, diffusing their abominable garlic odor from 
every table. I visited all the large churches, took 
some coffee, and before nine o'clock was on my way 
through the vast plain watered by the Po, which, like 
most large rivers, branches near its mouth into sev- 
eral streams. The lad who drove me did not know 
the road very well, and lost his way several times, so 
that instead of arriving before daybreak it was six 
o'clock in the morning when we entered Ferrara. In- 
deed he came near losing his horse as well as the 
road, for while I was sleeping soundly in the carriage 
I was roused by a prodigious clatter, and jumping out 
as quick as I could, found that he had driven into a 
heap of rough stones deposited to mend the road; the 
horse had slipped and was lying flat upon his back in 
the bottom of the ditch. With much ado we liber- 
ated him from the carriage and lifted him out of the 
ditch, repaired the injury to the harness as well as 
we could with bits of rope, and were again on our 
way. I have wondered since how I could ride thus 
