xT. 28.] JOURNAL. 207 
like it. I have walked over this ground again; and 
one is never wearied with the sight. . . . The street 
musicians here are very good. A party stops at the 
door of the café: a man with a violin, his wife and 
son each with a guitar, and they perform several airs 
exceedingly well, the woman sometimes accompanying 
with her voice. She enters the café with the little 
wooden cup in her hand, and is well satisfied with a 
kreutzer (about half a cent) from those who choose to 
give, and a sweet “ grazia”’ in the softest Italian ex- 
presses her thanks. There is one café here frequented 
almost exclusively by Turks, who sit smoking their 
large pipes with such an air of ridiculous gravity. 
Their turbans or the red caps they often wear, their 
flowing robes and their nether garments, which are 
something between pantaloons and _ petticoats, are 
very queer. . . 
I spare you a eed account of my movements to- 
day and yesterday, of the fine churches, enough to fur- 
nish cathedrals to half a dozen cities, of the arsenal, its 
ship-yard, the antique lions, the public garden, the Ar- 
menian convent, the gondolas and my rides therein. 
I have enjoyed it greatly, and have laid up a stock for 
future enjoyment, for I shall read hereafter of Venice 
with greater interest. One who travels as rapidly as 
I do, if he would enjoy the full benefit of his journey, 
should know almost everything before he leaves home. 
The true way for those who have time and means suf- 
ficient is to study the history of each place on the 
spot with all its monuments and relics around them. 
So more might be learned in one month than in a year 
at home. If I had what I am not likely to have, — 
a family of children to bring up, money sufficient for 
the purpose, and no other duties to prevent, I think I 
