220 FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE. (1839, 
beautiful greenhouses. He has fitted up his house 
very tuistefully, and filled it with all manner of strange 
things, arms, idols, and so forth. His collection of 
living plants is larger than that of Schodnbrunn, 
iheagh the trees are younger. 
Several days after my arrival I called to pay my re- 
spects to our minister here, Mr. Muhlenberg, and the 
secretary of legation, Mr. Clay. Philip and myself 
also spent an evening at Mr. Clay’s, where we met 
Mr. and Mrs. Muhlenberg, and their daughter, a 
young lady of about seventeen; also Mrs. Clay, a 
pretty woman, and Mr. Schwartz (the American con- 
sul here) and his wife, who both speak English indif- 
ferently well. Muhlenberg seems quite sick of living 
here, and speaks of the Austrians with anything but 
praise. 
We went one evening to a public garden, of which 
there are many here, to hear the most celebrated mu- 
sician here, Mr. Strauss. A few kreutzers are charged 
for admission, and the company are nearly all seated, 
at little tables, eating a substantial supper, or sipping 
coffee or ices, as they incline, while Strauss with his 
fine band played the finest music, mostly pieces of 
his own composition. It was the best music I ever 
heard, — 
Philip left me on Monday evening and went to 
Prague. On Tuesday I arranged passport, left par- 
cels to be sent to Hamburg, took leave; came out to 
Nussdorf after dinner, from which the steamboat 
leaves, and after seeing my luggage deposited safely 
on board, I climbed the Leopoldsberg, a steep moun- 
tain between eight hundred and nine hundred feet 
high, and enjoyed the beautiful and extensive view 
from its summit,—a fine view of Vienna, of the 
