230 FIRST JOURNEY IN EUROPE. [1839, 
ing now for it to clear up that I may climb the Moénchs- 
berg, and enjoy the prospect that is said to be so 
fine. At midday I had hopes of a pleasant afternoon, 
but it is now raining harder than ever. 
In this region, as in the retired parts of Styria, 
through which I passed to Vienna, you are charmed 
with the kind-hearted simplicity of the people. If 
you meet them in walking, they always give you some 
word of greeting, and commonly take off their hats 
and bow to you; yet there seems to be nothing servile 
or cringing in it. You get a porter to carry your 
baggage, who, instead of asking for more when you 
have given him already more than he expected to re- 
ceive, takes off his hat, makes you a low bow, and 
thanks you most heartily, though without any palaver. 
So with the servants, who never ask anything, and I 
suppose would not if you were to forget them alto- 
gether; I doubt if they would ever remind you; you 
give them about a third part of what an English ser- 
vant would expect, and you have them all most heartily 
wishing you bon voyage or gliickliche reise, accord- 
ing to the language they speak. In some places they 
say the chambermaid kisses your hand, but this has 
not happened to me yet. The women, when not ren- 
dered wholly masculine in appearance by performing 
the labor of men, which is very common, are almost 
universally good-looking, and in such vigorous health. 
Ido not admire their head-dress, which is ordinarily 
a black silk thing tied closely around the head and 
tied in rather fantastic bows behind. The women of 
Linz and all this part of the Danube wear, when in 
full dress, a cap of tinsel or gold lace, shaped exactly 
like the Roman helmet, which fits close to the top 
of the head. But fashions never leave this world; 
