ET, 28.] JOURNAL. 245 
ous ever-changing aspects of the mountains and lake 
as it cleared up! Saw the steamboat at a distance, 
and hastened to the foot of the mountain, when it 
soon became evident enough that the boat did not in- 
tend to touch there; so we took a boat and went out 
to meet it. But although we drew very near them as 
they passed, they did not choose to take the slightest 
notice of us, and I was obliged, in the middle of the 
lake, to consider what should be done in such a pre- 
dicament. I had no intention of awaiting the return 
of the steamboat and going with her to Lucerne, 
thence to begin the route to-morrow; and for a few 
moments I was a little bothered. But fortunately a 
pedestrian like me is not at the mercy of steamboats 
and stagecoaches ; and the high satisfaction one feels 
at his comparative fede jencteries is one of the great 
pleasures of this mode of locomotion, and goes far to 
compensate for the fatigue. I reflected that I might 
not find the courier at Fluellen, and in that case should 
have a prodigious journey, and moreover that I had 
clearly saved the money I should have paid. So, 
learning on hasty inquiry that a blind mountain path 
led from the opposite shore into the canton of Unter- 
walden to Stanz, ete., — from whence I knew I could 
reach the Grimsel, and if I chose St. Gotthard, and 
that it was the nearest way to the Grindelwald and 
all the finest part of Switzerland, —I ordered the 
boat to take me to that shore, where I was accordingly 
left to shift for myself as well as I could. But then 
came on one of the ills that flesh is heir to, most espe- 
cially in traveling, —I wanted my dinner! I stopped 
at a cottage, the only one in the vicinity, but found 
no one but a little girl, who stared at me as if she had 
never seen a civilized being ; saw no chance of getting 
