&T, 28.] JOURNAL. 255 
very confident that the guide paid nothing, and there- 
fore suspected a connivance between him and _ the 
aubergiste to put all on my shoulders, — one of the 
evils of a guide ; they are worse than useless on all the 
usual routes, indeed anywhere, except in ascending 
very high mountains and crossing glaciers; felt a 
little inclined to punish my guide, and therefore set 
off at a swinging pace and took him up the Little 
Scheideck much more rapidly than he ever went be- 
fore. I buttoned up my coat and pretended not to be 
making any effort at all, while the poor fellow str ipped 
off first his coat, then his waistcoat, the perspira- 
tion running off his face; until finally he pronounced 
it apoeable to keep near me, and lagged far behind. 
At length I took pity on him and walked slower, but 
we crossed the Scheideck and reached the Wengern 
Alp, a journey of four hours and a half, in a little less 
than three. . . 
From the rest of the Little Scheideck (6,300 feet) 
I got my first near view of the remainder of the high 
Bernese Alps, —the Monch (12,660 feet), the Jung- 
frau (12,670 feet) (1 have been giving you the height 
all along in French feet, as they are put down in Kel- 
ler; in English feet the numbers will be considerably 
higher), with the two white peaks, the Silberhorner 
(silver-peaks), which belong to it. 
Still beyond, though not quite so lofty, were the 
Grosshorn, the Breithorn, ete. The point where I 
stood commanded nearly the whole view, from the 
Engelhérner, Wetterhorn, a glimpse of the Schreck- 
horn, the Mettenberg, Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau, 
as I stood just in the mid-distance; an unsurpassed 
view it is. As I descended the other side to the Wen- 
gern Alp I lost those more to the east, but came still 
nearer to the Jungfrau. . 
