ET. 28.] JOURNAL. 257 
and grandest pass across the Alps. It is a footpath, 
or at best a bridle-path. I set out alone, with my 
knapsack on my back. Ascended a considerable dis- 
tance when the clouds sunk lower and it began to rain, 
though I had the satisfaction to see down the valley 
that the sun was shining at Meyringen. Passed the 
last little village (Guttannen), a lonely place ; above, 
the scenery grew to the very height of gloomy gran- 
deur: immense blackened granitic mountains, clothed 
at the base with black stunted firs, above all naked tre- 
mendous rocks and peaks; between, just room enough 
for the river to tumble along, forming here and there 
a cataract. The view was heightened much, I doubt 
not, by the clouds and storm, so entirely in character 
with the scenery. I never before enjoyed a lonely 
rainy walk so much. 
At the height of about 4,500 feet, and in the midst of 
the very wildest and most lonely scenery, reached the 
falls of the Aar at Handek, the finest in Switzerland, 
— indeed the only sublime waterfall here; viewed it 
first from below, then from the rude bridge thrown 
across just a few feet above where it leaps into the 
awful gorge. The scenery and all is in character, and 
for savage grandeur I have seen nothing to compare 
with it. Stopped at the chalet near, the only dwelling 
within some miles ; waited a little for the rain to sub- 
side, and finding that even here a traveler’s first wants 
had been pretty well provided for, I made an early but 
most excellent dinner upon bread, butter, cheese, and 
honey, the last especially excellent. No signs of better 
weather; so started on, passing a spot where falling 
avalanches every winter and spring had swept over a 
vast space of rock and completely worn it smooth; was 
now above trees, with here and there a bit of scanty 
